Rock-N-Roll Kart - Tire Gone Flat
- Thread starter TwinSpinDJ
- Start date
I got the r10.I think the no flat wheels are $25.00 each on the R&Rwebsite.Well worth the price.If you have the r10 and can get the upgrade casters, grab them.The last time I talked to them ,they were having trouble with there supplier.Those are a lot better than the stock casters.If you have the stock casters you have to be careful when you have a full load and are going over transition strips,they will strip the rubber off the hub and throw your whole load.Been there done that.I hope this helps!!
Thanks bizzyb53. I have been having issues getting over strips - anything that is higher than a piece of paper. I'll check into them!
If they are not promised to anyone and you still have them, I would be interested. My zip is 77077
I got my RnR in 1989 I believe.
BTW I have had no issues with mine. Just keep the air pressure maintained and there should be no problem. The reason I won't mind buying new is because the rubber on mine may be getting old so one day maybe they will fail.
We offer them. 
I don't think they are hard to put on, but maybe others can weigh in here?
Ben
I don't think they are hard to put on, but maybe others can weigh in here?Ben
WOW! We sell them for a lot less than that! Maybe we need to raise our price. LOL. Anyone interested in a price, please let us know.
We offer them.
Ben
Come to think of it ,I had to bore the hole out some to fit.I think I took a 0.0320 out of them.Hey Ben do you carry the retrofit casters for the rr10?
I have had the R10 for several years. Had alot of trouble with the rears going flat too. I found by keeping a heavy object on the cart (I use a battery) the deflation problem stopped. I am ready to step up to the R12. Those front casters on the 10 are awful.
I had an RR10 from 15 years ago. The front casters were great on dry ground and nearly impossible to use on grass. That's why I replaced it with the R12 with inflatable wheels on the front and back.
Turns out this was a MAJOR mistake.
#1) The tube tires on the front are nearly impossible to turn on dry surfaces
#2) I very rarely go across gravel or grass any more
#3) Now there are FOUR wheels to keep inflated
Having inserted/replaced tubes on TWO RNR carts, I can say that I NEVER EVER EVER want to do it again. It takes two people and at least an hour of wrangling. I'm glad to hear the new ones are tubeless, that's for sure.
Unfortunately, I sold my trusty RR10 at a garage sale for $10. Uggh.
Turns out this was a MAJOR mistake.
#1) The tube tires on the front are nearly impossible to turn on dry surfaces
#2) I very rarely go across gravel or grass any more
#3) Now there are FOUR wheels to keep inflated
Having inserted/replaced tubes on TWO RNR carts, I can say that I NEVER EVER EVER want to do it again. It takes two people and at least an hour of wrangling. I'm glad to hear the new ones are tubeless, that's for sure.
Unfortunately, I sold my trusty RR10 at a garage sale for $10. Uggh.
Exactly,Thats why I say you have to get the upgrade casters for the front.I am not worried and they work like a charm.I even keep an extra one in the van but haven't needed it.
K
Kirby Ball
Guest
Thanks Ben, we're taking delivery of our 2nd R-12 with the no-flat wheels in a couple of days. Between these 2 carts and my industrial cart that I bought at Sams, I should be in pretty good shape for loading in and loading out..
Yep, we sure do.
Thanks Ben, we're taking delivery of our 2nd R-12 with the no-flat wheels in a couple of days. Between these 2 carts and my industrial cart that I bought at Sams, I should be in pretty good shape for loading in and loading out..
You're welcome Kirby. I promised to say hi to the Fargodome for Coreen too.
Ben
I too have been told to get he R12 wheels forthe front of my R10. So are y'all saying they actually still exist? If so, how much are they? Bcuz I am sick n tired ofthe bearings on the front wheels going out!!!
I have never had an issue with the bearings going out and I'm going on 6 yearswith my cart.So you guys are saying you can retrofit the rr10 front wheels with rr12 noflat front tires?
I guess that some of you guys don't use Racks on wheels. I get teased about all the gear I have and use but for regular gigs, it takes me only three loads out of the van....the R n R (Speaker stands, Laptop and HD etc in a flight case, two Bose 802s (Stage Monitor, two boom mike stands and Container with Karaoke Books if needed), Facade either standing up or along the side of the R n R + a large custom made furniture dolly for the sub and console on top + processing rack with amps on wheels. Takes half and hour to hook up and play.
When I am using the big system, add 4 Bass cabinets on wheels + 2 Midrange and 2 tweeter cabinets take the place of the sub on the furniture dolly + 1 amp rack. Takes an hour to hook up and play because I have three extra speaker cables to run plus an extra rack to connect to Processing rack.
Most everything is pre-wired in my racks including the amp ends of the speaker cables.
When I am using the big system, add 4 Bass cabinets on wheels + 2 Midrange and 2 tweeter cabinets take the place of the sub on the furniture dolly + 1 amp rack. Takes an hour to hook up and play because I have three extra speaker cables to run plus an extra rack to connect to Processing rack.
Most everything is pre-wired in my racks including the amp ends of the speaker cables.
I dont believe there is such a retrofit....wish there was! I think people are talking about getting the no flats to replace the existing pneumatics on the R12.
I have similar tires on my hand cart that do the same thing.
View attachment 22820
1- buy the metal valve stem caps with the two little prongs on the top
2- use the prongs as a wrench to remove (unscrew) the valve
3- with the valve removed, use an air compressor and blow air into the tire
4- the force of the air, without being restricted by the valve, will blow out the walls of the tires, which allows the edge of the rubber to se-seat itself on the rim.
5- replace the valve using the metal cap to tighten it
6- add air as you normally would.
View attachment 22820
1- buy the metal valve stem caps with the two little prongs on the top
2- use the prongs as a wrench to remove (unscrew) the valve
3- with the valve removed, use an air compressor and blow air into the tire
4- the force of the air, without being restricted by the valve, will blow out the walls of the tires, which allows the edge of the rubber to se-seat itself on the rim.
5- replace the valve using the metal cap to tighten it
6- add air as you normally would.
