New DJ Needs Help Selecting Speakers...

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Not boundary coupling, which you are referring to, but air coupling .. the tube of air that needs to be moved by a horn loaded driver.

Thats the reason I like to have more power and equipment then I really need to get the job done. I can always turn it down, but once your pushing the max level of your equipment, your stuck limited to what ya got.
 
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Thats the reason I like to have more power and equipment then I really need to get the job done. I can always turn it down, but once your pushing the max level of your equipment, your stuck limited to what ya got.
It's not a power thing .. the driver still moves what it moves. In fact, horn loaded drivers tend to be more power efficient than direct radiators .. that's why a lot of "old school" speakers (like many of the Klipsch) were horn loaded.
 
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There are all kinds of pro's and con's to any setup and how you run the system and we can discus it till the cows come home. Thats what makes learning and running sound so fun. Having different equipment set ups are important and experimenting with them is so fun. There is always something to learn.
 
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There are all kinds of pro's and con's to any setup and how you run the system and we can discus it till the cows come home. Thats what makes learning and running sound so fun. Having different equipment set ups are important and experimenting with them is so fun. There is always something to learn.
While we can debate the "subjective" pieces, I was merely correcting the objective errors.

In the end, it's all physics.
 
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While we can debate the "subjective" pieces, I was merely correcting the objective errors.

In the end, it's all physics.

Yes getting it right and getting it wrong are both equal in the quest to getting better at it. getting better at what you do.
 
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We can discus more later but it's about to get dark so I gotta pause this discussion and I got things to do before it gets dark, so we can pick this up later. Running sound properly is a never ending learning curve.
 
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You are wrong on thrucks, I know because I havebeen truck shopping for the past year for a single cab loaded. They don't exist. They are stripped down work trucks.
Chevy only make one single cab and it a stripped down work with no bells and whistles. You can not get a chevy single cab with and bells or whistles, I tried. Everything else is double cab or extended cab. I know this because I have been truck shopping for awhile now.
Real cowboys don't line dance. Only fake ones do. All hat and no saddle. You cant buy a chevy 1500/2500.3500 with anything smaller then a 17'' wheel.
Go ahead and call a dealer and ask for a single cab with all the bells and whistles, and they will laugh at you.
Fords is the same way, if you want a fancy truck it's double cab or stripped down work truck.

I can't speak for the US models but the F150 in Canada can be ordered with all the toys in a single cab I was sitting in one 6 months ago. It was a 2019 with 2200 KM on it. I wound up buying a 2016 with all the toys but extended cab because I need the seating for much less money

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I live in the Houston area in TX, about three hours away from San Antonio. Do those speakers hold up the same as Mackie, EV, or QSC I am researching and asking around to see if Mackie speakers sound anywhere near as good as the QSC or EV. For price I am thinking Mackie, but for quality people have told me that EV or QSZ are the best, but my budget is saying Mackie. Not sure yet. Now I am wanting to check put the speakers you mentioned. Thanks for the feedback.
Bassboss are on another level .. and their price reflects it. :)
 
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SEVEN pages to answer the question "What kind of speakers should I buy?'"

Good Lord!


I saved the BEST Answer for last! :) ...You want powered Active speakers.

The Answer is simply ALTO Powered Speakers, specifically Alto TS312. $600/pair, and you are good to go. Purchase either 25 ft IEC power cables, OR a couple of black extension cables that are 20 feet long so you can extend them out when you want to. Add a Alto TS2 series Sub for $499 or less to go with these speakers, and you are good to go. Full sound system for under $1,200, and will sound great!

Don't listen to any Haters on here. They are jealous they spent more money on speakers, and don't want to admit that these speakers sound superb.

....Now...if you have a lot more money to spend, and want to SPLURGE on this. Here is Option 2: ...Go with QSC K12.2 ...Can't go wrong with them. They will last super long. OR...Yamaha DXR MKII. I prefer Yamaha myself, but QSC is like a industry standard in regard to their name and reputation with powered speakers. This option will cost you $1,500+ ...Add a Sub from either brand name, and you are looking at $2300+

IF you really have a lot of money to spend, and want the line array look. Go with Bose L1 model 2 along with Bose Subs. Older speakers, but still sounds solid, and last forever. DOn't forget the Bose MIxer as well for optimum sound. Will set you back $5,000+ or whatever, but you will be in the exclusive BOSE Club, and have a sound system that will last a dozen years or more no problem.
 
SEVEN pages to answer the question "What kind of speakers should I buy?'"

Good Lord!


I saved the BEST Answer for last! :) ...You want powered Active speakers.

The Answer is simply ALTO Powered Speakers, specifically Alto TS312.
Good Lord .. No !! :)
 
SEVEN pages to answer the question "What kind of speakers should I buy?'"

Good Lord!


I saved the BEST Answer for last! :) ...You want powered Active speakers.

The Answer is simply ALTO Powered Speakers, specifically Alto TS312. $600/pair, and you are good to go. Purchase either 25 ft IEC power cables, OR a couple of black extension cables that are 20 feet long so you can extend them out when you want to. Add a Alto TS2 series Sub for $499 or less to go with these speakers, and you are good to go. Full sound system for under $1,200, and will sound great!

Don't listen to any Haters on here. They are jealous they spent more money on speakers, and don't want to admit that these speakers sound superb.

....Now...if you have a lot more money to spend, and want to SPLURGE on this. Here is Option 2: ...Go with QSC K12.2 ...Can't go wrong with them. They will last super long. OR...Yamaha DXR MKII. I prefer Yamaha myself, but QSC is like a industry standard in regard to their name and reputation with powered speakers. This option will cost you $1,500+ ...Add a Sub from either brand name, and you are looking at $2300+

IF you really have a lot of money to spend, and want the line array look. Go with Bose L1 model 2 along with Bose Subs. Older speakers, but still sounds solid, and last forever. DOn't forget the Bose MIxer as well for optimum sound. Will set you back $5,000+ or whatever, but you will be in the exclusive BOSE Club, and have a sound system that will last a dozen years or more no problem.

The heart of your system starts with the USB mixer/controller and DBX PA2, the amps and speakers are the power house part that can be changed depending on the venue size and how much punch you need.
It all depends on what goals and what size venues you want to work in. There are systems for small venues to large rock concerts. Since powered systems have become the trend, people are dumping passive systems for dirt cheap prices.
There are systems suited for everything from small venues to large concert systems and everything in between. It also depends on what type of car or truck trailer combo you have to transport your system. Budget is also a consideration. There is no one system that can do it all. Durability and ease of set up and warranty considerations that also apply.
I picked up the T221's used in like new condition for 150 bucks from a church, with 50 foot speaker cords. I picked up 2 Q66 amps from GC for 99 bucks each in like new condition.
I got a DBX PA2 used from GC for 250 bucks in the original box with the clear film still covering the viewing windows. I picked up a used pair of EV Eliminator subs at GC for 100 bucks. I got a Pioneer DJM 5000 mixer at GC in perfect condition for 200 bucks. Total cost was 900 bucks for tops, subs 2 amps, mixer with USB input and x over with built in pre/post/EQ/limiter/compressor/FBS/time delay and XLR zone outs/monitor outs and 4 channel inputs. That whole system was 900 bucks.
Thats a complete system including mixer for 300 less then just a pair of powered tops and subs alone.
If you shop around and take your time you can get a passive system that is equal and in most cases better then just a set of powered tops and subs alone.
That is one of the points I have been trying to make.
I got a complete used 2400 watt system that included everything I needed to just plug in and go. The only thing that I didn't include are mic's and stands and a few XLR patch cords and a sound source. Most people are using lap tops for there sound source and the DJM 5000 is USB ready and works great with VDJ7.
Thats why I suggested a DBX PA 2 because it comes equipped with everything built in for pre and post Eq's/x over/ compressor/limiter/time delay/FBS all in one 1U rack unit. Coupled with any USB ready mixer and some used passive speakers and amps. It's as small and compact and pacts a punch that you can haul in almost any compact car. If you want more punch all you need are bigger speakers and more powerful amps to drive them.
The heart of your system starts with the USB mixer/controller and DBX PA2, the amps and speakers are the power house part that can be changed depending on the venue size and how much punch you need.
 
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Think of it as 2 systems. The mixer/controller input side and the power end amps and speakers,. You can go ether powered or passive on the power end, but your mixer/controller end tends to be the heart of the whole system, and is what drives the whole system.
 
There are plenty of powered speakers that come with DSP built in and you can set these controls to suit your needs. but you have to set these controls on the back of each speaker. And if you need to make a change you have to go to the back of each speaker to make them. With a passive system all your controls can be made from your rack/mixer end. You don't have to jump up on stage and make corrections during a live performance like you do with powered speakers. And if you fly your speakers, you gonna need a ladder to changes settings with a powered speaker. With passive you can do that from your mixer/controller/PA2 rack and stay out of sight.
Like I have been saying, there are pro's and con's to both types of systems. If you are doing live sound, you need to stay at the board to make cue changes while the band is playing. If you doing weddings, once you get it sounding right you don't always need to stay at the board. You get it set correctly then all your doing is mixing and playing pre recorded songs.
The problem with pre recorded music is some music is bass heavy and some are not. You can correct a lot of that by just adjusting the EQ at the board and that will work. But, simply turning the bass up or down from a EQ can make some pre recorded music sound muddy and dull. With a PA2 you can correct the bass and still have it sound great because you have more then just an EQ to work with right at your mixer board.
Again there are pro's and con's to every set up.
Personally I like to stay put at the board and make the proper changes from there instead of running around to each speaker to make the right changes when things change in the venue.
Setting up when there are no body's on the dance floor sounds different then when the floor fills up with people. And during a show people come and go out on the dance floor and that affects your sound quality. It's much easier to be able to do it all from the console because thats where all your controls are located.
If you just want to be a jukebox and hit play by all means get something that is cheap and push play and sit back and relax. If you want to do live sound or be a real DJ and be creative with your mixing talent, get a better system where you have more control over the sound.
 
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Bassboss is super expensive! A lot of DJs don't have a complete system costing as much as one of their speakers. They are top of the line. Their speakers mostly are not for mobile DJ work. Their stuff can be used for a nice size festival or club. I wouldn't recommend a DJ who is just looking into getting into getting speakers passive or powered go anywhere near that brand unless you just want to listen. I will get a setup of there's as soon as I hit the Powerball or Mega Millions.
 
Oldschool, Have you not heard of Meyer? They make arguably the best pro audio speakers in the world, and they ONLY make powered.
I suspect they are not doing so as a matter of convenience or for weight reduction but to most efficiently and properly match the cabinets/drivers to the prescribed power and quality requirements of their speakers.
 
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SEVEN pages to answer the question "What kind of speakers should I buy?'"

Good Lord!


I saved the BEST Answer for last! :) ...You want powered Active speakers.

The Answer is simply ALTO Powered Speakers, specifically Alto TS312. $600/pair, and you are good to go. Purchase either 25 ft IEC power cables, OR a couple of black extension cables that are 20 feet long so you can extend them out when you want to. Add a Alto TS2 series Sub for $499 or less to go with these speakers, and you are good to go. Full sound system for under $1,200, and will sound great!

And then you can buy them again next year how exciting :)



IF you really have a lot of money to spend, and want the line array look. Go with Bose L1 model 2 along with Bose Subs. Older speakers, but still sounds solid, and last forever. DOn't forget the Bose MIxer as well for optimum sound. Will set you back $5,000+ or whatever, but you will be in the exclusive BOSE Club, and have a sound system that will last a dozen years or more no problem.

Spend more money and get better quality longer lasting speakers...What a quaint idea :)

I rest my case your honour ;)
 
And then you can buy them again next year how exciting :)





Spend more money and get better quality longer lasting speakers...What a quaint idea :)

I rest my case your honour ;)


Correct! There is no perfect all around sound system.
Start with what drives the system and that is your mixer/controller, then what you use to split that signal and control the signal, (i.e. EQ/x over/compressor/limiter/FBC) The last part of a system is the speakers and what powers them, be it powered speakers or passive speakers.
But it all starts with your mixer/controller and getting the best quality signal you can. Then what controls the signal after it leaves the mixer/controller.
Next is what powers the speakers (i.e. what kind of amps you use). The actual speakers are the last part of the system. Thats why they call it a system, it all works together from input signal to boosting that signal to a level that is suited for the venue.
 
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Which type of speaker will give me less trouble in the long run Powered or Active?

Has anyone tried the Rockville Brand Speakers? If I choose the Passive speakers do you have any suggestions about a good amp to purchase?

Once connected do I have to plug the amp right into a power source or run it through a mixer?


Lets get back on track here. The op wants to know witch speakers give the less trouble. I will say passive because they are the simplest part, because there are lost of options, and because your only buying the speaker and not a speaker amp combination.
The next question was amplification. Again I would go with power amps, because they are easy to change and you can get a variety of types of amps, from class A to class D. With powered speakers your stuck with what ever comes with the speaker, witch is generally a class D amp.
The last question was the mixer/controller part, and there are a vast options here as well.
So start with what provides the best signal, the mixer/controller, then work your way down the signal chain to how your going to control that signal. From there you have the option of going passive or powered speakers. Th simplest being passive because you have more options between what types of xovers, amps you use and the last being the speakers themselves. How long will they last and how easy they are to replace. You can blow up any system no mater what they cost, that comes down to the discretion of the operator. Know what your system is capable of and don't exceed it.
Most if not all systems have warning lights that are like traffic signal lights. Green mean go, it's safe, yellow means caution, and red means stop it's not safe.
 
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