It's a combination of all. I have already forwarded the contact info for a local Psychiatrist yorofl:
Fair warning boys, be careful when you use the live-X EVs outdoors
- Thread starter rickryan.com
- Start date
It's a combination of all. I have already forwarded the contact info for a local Psychiatrist yorofl:
Taking shot's at one another is getting rather old to me also.....keep it up and i'll be forced to do my very first thread clean up.
otherwise i can call in the other sheriff to deal with you guys when i cannot be here. (you know who i'm talking about)
otherwise i can call in the other sheriff to deal with you guys when i cannot be here. (you know who i'm talking about)
Just a disclaimer here. I know about FBT and their products and did not mean to say that they are trash. My wording this time could have easily been misconstrued. I can see why.
Rick! After EV repairs the speakers, I would still get rid of them. Those Live X things are entry level and made for house party dj's. I would never touch them. Real EV is Tour X, Phoenix, QRX and ZX in my opinion.
John have you used them or even heard them? Just asking. I consider the so called entry level ones a notch above the NX series from Yorkville and alot of DJs swear by them.
John have you used them or even heard them? Just asking. I consider the so called entry level ones a notch above the NX series from Yorkville and alot of DJs swear by them. Also wanted to point out I have had my Mackies in the past thermal twice and both times they were operator error even though they ran awfully hot no matter what and guess what? They were the Italian ones and both times inside. I ran them outdoors often and in extreme hot weather.
Hey JTV. Yes I heard them on 2 occasions at different parties held in NJ and they suck. I know you must be joking about the NX series. The NX 750's that I used for well over 4 years will eat the crap out of the Live X line period. My NX's would run for 5 hard hours and not even get warm and they never lost the sound quality either during any event. The drivers in the NX's were B&C. Also the NX's are not entry level boxes. It's a composite version of the Elite line. Same drivers and amp in each. The Unity series is the next step up.
Just to give you another example of great bang for the buck. I bought my NX's for 750.00 each in 2007 and they worked about 35 events each year at an average of 700.00 per party. ( I have two other systems also). I sold the 750's in 2011 for 1400.00 bucks. What other speaker in that class will ever hold it's value like that. Used gear normally sells for 1/2 of what it cost originally. New 750's are going for 900.00 each now. Yorkville must be doing something right huh big guy!!
Just to give you another example of great bang for the buck. I bought my NX's for 750.00 each in 2007 and they worked about 35 events each year at an average of 700.00 per party. ( I have two other systems also). I sold the 750's in 2011 for 1400.00 bucks. What other speaker in that class will ever hold it's value like that. Used gear normally sells for 1/2 of what it cost originally. New 750's are going for 900.00 each now. Yorkville must be doing something right huh big guy!!
Is this a problem with the 112s only...or is it a concern with the 115s as well?? Also, there should be some public announcement on their website (and perhaps in these type of forums) regarding this issue and an open RECALL of this DEFECTIVE product!
As stated above, if a system/speakers whatever is improperly used/configured then it may not be the fault of the equipment itself. There is such a thing as operator error. Misuse can also play a big part. Nobody knows for sure at this time.
Precision, I was feeding the speakers full-range off a Denon mixer. The speakers were set at 2pm with the Sub button engaged. As I stated to you in my PM, these things have shutdown on me FOUR TIMES. Twice outside, once under a patio (temps in the 90s) and once in a fully air-conditioned facility. I'm extremely careful to not overdrive my cabs. If it starts tapping the limit light, I back off. I think I've been more than patient.
Let's be real here. If they work then great. If they don't then we shouldn't be getting PMs telling us to "back off". Perhaps I've simply gotten hold of a bad pair. Michael Doucot, who reports himself an EV rep (I'm trying to verify this) has been kind enough to follow up and has gotten me an address to send them to for repair. We'll see what happens.
As for now, the subject is entirely pertinent and accurate. I'm not the only person reporting thermal issues.
pot meet kettle.............practically everything I've seen you post was what I'd call taking a shot.
Rick,
As stated in my prior posts, use the external crossover and let it do it's job you'll get a fuller tone and the tops won't have to work that hard therefore they'll run cooler. Think of this as something similar to an automobile recall. For example the electric fan on your car is supposed to turn on at 185°F, but the factory calibration actually turns it on at 235°F, in traffic with no airflow through the radiator 235°F is to late and the car will overheat. Solution take care to dealer and replace said sensor and you're on your way. Remember the many variables, once you get the amps back put them on and take them outsied and run your system in the sun before fall arrives. You could sell them and get something different but I would give them a chance.
As stated in my prior posts, use the external crossover and let it do it's job you'll get a fuller tone and the tops won't have to work that hard therefore they'll run cooler. Think of this as something similar to an automobile recall. For example the electric fan on your car is supposed to turn on at 185°F, but the factory calibration actually turns it on at 235°F, in traffic with no airflow through the radiator 235°F is to late and the car will overheat. Solution take care to dealer and replace said sensor and you're on your way. Remember the many variables, once you get the amps back put them on and take them outsied and run your system in the sun before fall arrives. You could sell them and get something different but I would give them a chance.
Rick,
As you have stated, maybe it was a bad run on that production line. Seriously speaking based on your description, I don't feel you did anything wrong. I too have sent full range out from a mixer while utilizing its sub output. The mixer does not split the signals. All it does is filter off the highs going to the sub output. Full range remains the same on the main outputs. As long as there were no other connections improperly managed in the chain, yes, it does come to conclude that it may be the speaker. Disregard my previous post about operator error.
Let EV handle it. I am sure they will take care of you. Don't go knocking the Brand. For example, I hate Eons but that does not make all JBLs bad.
This looks like a MANUFACTURER DEFECT issue to me: "If I understood correctly, some of the earliest boxes had an issue with the safety cutoff being set to too low a temp. They're going to fix them."
Plus like Rick stated, he is not the only person to report thermal related issues with these boxes. Lets face it, these were highly touted by certain respected, knowledgeable folks when they came out. To have them start failing at gigs is pretty disgusting and embarrassing for the manufacturer and the folks who touted/sold them. For the DJs who these are failing on...its even worse.
I wasn't real impressed with the Live x 12s when I heard them, I think my EV SX100 and SX300 are better, but the Live-X 15s sounded GREAT,very clear and crisp highs and the over all sound is smooth and clear-they don't sound like an entry level speaker at all. I could recommend them without hesitation. I'm still not a fan of or convinced that powered speakers are the way to go. With the advent of the new ultra light weight amps out there, passive looks pretty good to me right now.
making bold statements as to the manufacturer defect is pretty premature Mike Doucot has made contact with Rick to see about checking out the problem. they take things at EV very serious and will look into it and give an honest repraisal in the end Rick will get his speaker back in proper shape. I just love jumping to conclusion. Reading a report on a chat forum is the WORD OF GOD to some I think different. Let it play out then we can make judgement. John The One I was making the same claim only opposite what others have made and its just as valid. NOT!!! Others can say what they want and so can I or anyone else. I had Mackies and then ran the NX 15's alongside them and the Italian Mackies though not 15's ate them. I know the tonal value of the Live X is better than my Mackies so I guess I need my ears checked. I say everything here with a smile on my face. No need to get uptight about any of this. My point was demonstrating opinion. Hope that was clear and I was also allowed one.
As a guy that has blown up more active speakers than anyone I have even spoken to... I will say it must be user error.
I had my Live-X tops out on a 90+ degree day in the sun for 5 hours, never a single issue.
It sound like a signal chain issue to me. I use mine in full range mode even with subs, it just sounds better.
As far as a yorkville comparison, I never owned a set of speakers that needed as much eq as yorkville. Mine were never loud enough and always went into limit.
I had my Live-X tops out on a 90+ degree day in the sun for 5 hours, never a single issue.
It sound like a signal chain issue to me. I use mine in full range mode even with subs, it just sounds better.
As far as a yorkville comparison, I never owned a set of speakers that needed as much eq as yorkville. Mine were never loud enough and always went into limit.
Thanks for those two comments. I know everyone thought I was crazy to suggest that mains can be run in full range and you can just add a sub to it, for more bass. Also that even with powered speakers you may still have to do some Equalization to get the tone you want.
Okay, an update in the continuing saga..............Per Michael's direction, I've taken the amps out of the cabinets. First thing I'd noticed in the cab that's given me the most problems (both have had issues) was the yellow wire, hot on the LF side, just fell off. I know banana plugs are common in audio gear but personally I hate them. Should have used a locking mechanism or at least hit it with hot glue once it was in place. Apparently, whoever built this box bent the plug and it had a spotty connection. Can't say that I ever noticed lows being intermittent, just making observation.
I liked the box construction and was surprised to see the amp was mounted inside an enclosed compartment. The wires are well-glued where they come thru the box. I did take Mike's suggestion and made pics and I also taped together pos/neg on LF, then pos/neg on the HF. There was a locking plug for the logo light at least:
Now as for the lack of heatsink, this one puzzles me. It appears the faceplate and one little flat sliver of 1/8" aluminum (black, vertical, along the left-side) are acting as heatsinks. I have to question the wisdom here. Seems a decent set of fins would greatly help heat dissipation. However, they're the experts so I'll have to assume somebody did their diligence on it:
The amp modules are incredibly lightweight. It really makes me wonder how there's 6 lbs of difference between passive and active given you'd have to have a crossover on the passives. I'll have these over to UPS later today and have my fingers crossed on the rest. I'll keep you guys informed and will certainly give accolades when EV comes through. I have to say, that personal phone call floored me yesterday. Kudos to Michael.
I liked the box construction and was surprised to see the amp was mounted inside an enclosed compartment. The wires are well-glued where they come thru the box. I did take Mike's suggestion and made pics and I also taped together pos/neg on LF, then pos/neg on the HF. There was a locking plug for the logo light at least:
Now as for the lack of heatsink, this one puzzles me. It appears the faceplate and one little flat sliver of 1/8" aluminum (black, vertical, along the left-side) are acting as heatsinks. I have to question the wisdom here. Seems a decent set of fins would greatly help heat dissipation. However, they're the experts so I'll have to assume somebody did their diligence on it:
The amp modules are incredibly lightweight. It really makes me wonder how there's 6 lbs of difference between passive and active given you'd have to have a crossover on the passives. I'll have these over to UPS later today and have my fingers crossed on the rest. I'll keep you guys informed and will certainly give accolades when EV comes through. I have to say, that personal phone call floored me yesterday. Kudos to Michael.