Uplighting - Is there a "formula" to determine how many are needed?
- Thread starter karaoke_carlos
- Start date
I started out with a four light LED quote.
Eventually this became a 10 light minimum.
Now, I recommend 20 +/- 3 fixtures in order to light an entire room.
I will usually give an onsite consultation whenever they go above 10 fixtures. Since I like to see some kind of commitment, the 10 fixture quote is usually booked first. Some rooms require more LEDs and others require less. Really it is just about keeping the room well balanced and within their budget. You want to put the fixtures in places that make sense and give the best results.
For uplighting, you can either use PARs, strips, or pallets. Each has their pro and con. I've started with the PAR, and moved to the pallets, and looking to reinvest in the strips. Here is my reasoning behind this:
PARs are great, however the weidamark ones I purchased did not make it easy to daisy chain the power (I didn't have custom cords made yet). I also did not like how the base plates had to be screwed on/kept on each time I used them. Without the baseplate, the fixture would not balance properly. I didn't like how they were bulky and hard to transport. I didn't like how the beam angle was focused.
I then purchased the Chauvet Techno Strobes and fell in love with them. The beam angle was more, so a wash effect is accomplished easily. In low traffic areas, they don't require base plates (reduces setup time). The chauvet techno strobes make it easy to daisy chain the power. The units are compact, so you can stack 12 on top of eachother in an Arriba Mackie SRM450 Rolling bag. The main problem I am noticing is how quickly/easily they get damaged. They are more bulky so guests tend to bump/step on them more frequently. Also, I've had some issues with burnt out LEDs.
Because of everything above, I am in the process of moving to the LED strips, for a cleaner more focused wash. Another important thing is to make sure you get several powerful LEDs fixtures for outdoor applications (ex: tents). It can be a hassle to setup 20 fixtures in a tent with mega clamps (even hiding cables is a PITA). If you were to use 4-6 higher power LED fixtures instead, you will greatly reduce the tent setup time. I've had to learn this the hard way.
Eventually this became a 10 light minimum.
Now, I recommend 20 +/- 3 fixtures in order to light an entire room.
I will usually give an onsite consultation whenever they go above 10 fixtures. Since I like to see some kind of commitment, the 10 fixture quote is usually booked first. Some rooms require more LEDs and others require less. Really it is just about keeping the room well balanced and within their budget. You want to put the fixtures in places that make sense and give the best results.
For uplighting, you can either use PARs, strips, or pallets. Each has their pro and con. I've started with the PAR, and moved to the pallets, and looking to reinvest in the strips. Here is my reasoning behind this:
PARs are great, however the weidamark ones I purchased did not make it easy to daisy chain the power (I didn't have custom cords made yet). I also did not like how the base plates had to be screwed on/kept on each time I used them. Without the baseplate, the fixture would not balance properly. I didn't like how they were bulky and hard to transport. I didn't like how the beam angle was focused.
I then purchased the Chauvet Techno Strobes and fell in love with them. The beam angle was more, so a wash effect is accomplished easily. In low traffic areas, they don't require base plates (reduces setup time). The chauvet techno strobes make it easy to daisy chain the power. The units are compact, so you can stack 12 on top of eachother in an Arriba Mackie SRM450 Rolling bag. The main problem I am noticing is how quickly/easily they get damaged. They are more bulky so guests tend to bump/step on them more frequently. Also, I've had some issues with burnt out LEDs.
Because of everything above, I am in the process of moving to the LED strips, for a cleaner more focused wash. Another important thing is to make sure you get several powerful LEDs fixtures for outdoor applications (ex: tents). It can be a hassle to setup 20 fixtures in a tent with mega clamps (even hiding cables is a PITA). If you were to use 4-6 higher power LED fixtures instead, you will greatly reduce the tent setup time. I've had to learn this the hard way.
Robert great info in your post ... I think the thin aluminum works best for me for a base plate, its light and looks like the can ...the Chauvet Rain LED's have a great tight beam if thats what you are going for in uplighting but I do from time to time need a full wall wash as for the color strip you would think it it should be a wide wash but it is preity narow besides the with of the light its self ...I am looking into the H2O water effects they are a cool wide wash and it you stop the wheel it looks lie a cracked glass effect on the whole and looks nice I sold my Martin h20 and now I wish I kept it. I was trying to go all LED for power issues but the new LED H20's are getting better...I agree with your numbers and 10 is a good min. to start with even if you dont go around the room it makes the head wall look amazing and thats where most of the pictures are taken.
just something to think about
thanks MM
just something to think about
thanks MM
Sounds like we're pretty similiar, I am also looking at getting a couple of the American DJ H2O LED. I couldn't tell in the video if you could stop the color wheel or not. Do you know if you can? Is this the fixture you plan on getting?
I've had clients book me just because of how my old Martin Mania DC-1 would look on the ceiling.
I've had clients book me just because of how my old Martin Mania DC-1 would look on the ceiling.
I think it can be stoped just like my old martin DC-1 you could even open the LED box and tap into the glass wheel and the color wheel switch and add aplug plug it into a DMX switch to give you control ovet the motion and color bu turning it on and off to the desired color...I think you know hhat im trying to get across. the ADJ LED was a bit dim when I saw it a NAMM but it would work in darker rooms Im just waiting for the 20 -60 w led version and as soon as the price gets affordable LOL also the Battrie Packs Damn there pricieeeeeee!
MM
MM
Thanks guys for making this thread very educational...for me, anyway. I will have to check out that DJ H20 LED.
here is one for you in the H2o Chauvet 22w LED Not bad but not DMX 
world The Abyss™ LED is a soothing, rippling water effect produced by a high-power 22W LED. The ripple effect speed can be adjusted, as well as locked into a single color, via a switch on the rear of the unit. Up to 50 units can be linked at 120V.
http://www.chauvetlighting.com/abyss-led.html
thanks
MM
world The Abyss™ LED is a soothing, rippling water effect produced by a high-power 22W LED. The ripple effect speed can be adjusted, as well as locked into a single color, via a switch on the rear of the unit. Up to 50 units can be linked at 120V.
http://www.chauvetlighting.com/abyss-led.html
thanks
MM
Making LED cords is absolutely a breeze with these material. Took me about 30 minutes to make (2) 50 foot lengths & (2) 25 foot lenghts w/ add-a-taps at 5 feet intervals.
I'm also going to make a few other sizes as well for smaller runs and a customized one to place on my trussing when I run all LED cans.
Each cord has a male and female plug, allowing them to be linked also.
I currently start with an 8 light package with the next upgrade adding 4 lights. After that any number can be added and I will give a deal for each group of 4.
I may up it to 10. The basic package is usually enough to simply light the wall the head table or sweetheart table is at.
Randy did you purchased the polarized add-a-taps? The only ground lift adapters I can find are polarized and it will not fit into the standard add-a-tap
No, I purchased the regular add-a-taps. In fact, I don't even use the ground lifts anymore. I just let the ground plug ride along the outside of the add-a-tap.