New DJ Needs Help Selecting Speakers...

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PhaseIIPro said:
Above wouldn't be a problem at all.
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Yep a 500 watt 8 ohm speaker driven with and amp rated at 1100 watts at 8 ohms is a great match. Plenty of power there for great headroom without clipping the amp. That amp pushing 500 contenuious watts is just running at half power with 600 more watts for head room and would sound clean. You could even push short peaks of 600 to 700 watts into those 500 watt speakers and still have room for clean head room. The speaker should handle more then the recommended 500 watts short term as long as the signal is clean and distortion free and the input signal is matched to the input signal the amp is designed to run on. If you overdrive the amps input signal range you will create input distortion by over driving the recommended input signal.
But if you keep the input signal below unity gain, it should sound great and be a good match.
 
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Whatever you do new DJ please look for high quality professional gear. Don't just go by what it says on the box. It says on the box Pyle Pro and what it should really say is Pyle Of Junk. LOL.
 
Scott Hanna said:
You'll get a lot of advice about brands. The great news is there are a number of great brands.

I'd try meeting up with other DJ's, seeing equipment, seeing how heavy vs the sound quality.

For me, great sounding light speakers are very important. I move these things A LOT. if they were a pain to move around and set up, it would suck.

Some think bigger means better. Some think loud bass is the most important thing. While bass is vital, too much bass can distort the sound. Great clear sound is what's important to me.

Listen to people that will tell you what they like about their gear and see if that works for you.

Ignore people that trash other brands.

But you need to understand what features are important to you. This can be difficult when buying gear initially.

Don't review equipment by spec sheet. Cheap geaar is usually full of fantastic specs on a sheet.

I'd much rather buy used great gear than new cheap gear.

Take your time.
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You managed to write all that without actually recommending anything , lol..Some good points though.

Definitely go for active speakers rather than passive. Much less hassle . Yes you need to power the amp separately if running passive then hook your mixer output into the amplifier.

I have been using a pair of active RCF 310A's for the last 3 to 5 years they seem to suit me well for a wide range of variables . I like them because they are lightweight, put out a big SPL of 128 db each , 350Watts RMS each . Overall the sound is good and their is plenty of bass for most events, especially weddings where folks are not usually wanting thunder cracker boom speaker arrays . They are great for ceremonies too.
 
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andywilson said:
You managed to write all that without actually recommending anything , lol..Some good points though.

Definitely go for active speakers rather than passive. Much less hassle . Yes you need to power the amp separately if running passive then hook your mixer output into the amplifier.

I have been using a pair of active RCF 310A's for the last 3 to 5 years they seem to suit me well for a wide range of variables . I like them because they are lightweight, put out a big SPL of 128 db each , 350Watts RMS each . Overall the sound is good and their is plenty of bass for most events, especially weddings where folks are not usually wanting thunder cracker boom speaker arrays . They are great for ceremonies too.
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You mentioned one great thing. RCF. Enough said.
 
MIXMASTERMACHOM said:
Whatever you do new DJ please look for high quality professional gear. Don't just go by what it says on the box. It says on the box Pyle Pro and what it should really say is Pyle Of Junk. LOL.
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What the box says and how the equipment actually preforms are 2 totally different things.
Name one passive 12'' 8 ohm speaker cab that can handle 2000 watts. Yet 12' 8 ohm powered speakers say they are rated at 2000 watts.
Where are all these extra watts going?:dontknow: Thats right, head room. The 2000 watt powered speaker is still a 600 watt speaker powered by a 2000 watt amp. Why is that? Head room.:hammerhead:
Now read the amp specs carefully at what frequency range are they getting that 2000 watt rating they clam to be putting out?
 
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The most important spec of an amp is it's dampening factor. Think of a speaker cone as if it was a drum head and you hit it with a drum stick. It rings out over time and slowly quietits down till you can't hear it. Now do the same thing with a drum head and place your hand on the drum head and hit it again with a drum stick. What happens. Your hand resting on the drum head stops the vibration from moving. Thats is how you dampen a drum. The same principle apply s to a speaker cone. An amp makes the speaker cone move, but it the dampening factor that stops it from continuing to keep moving. An amp with a low dampening factor will make a speaker sound muddy, but an amp with a high dampening factor will sound cleaner because once the sound is produced by the moving cone, it stops the cone from continuing to move in and out. making the speaker sound tight and controlled.

Cheap amps have low dampening witch is why they sound muddy. A high end amp has a higher dampening witch is why they sound clean and controlled.
 
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oldschool said:
The most important spec of an amp is it's dampening factor. Think of a speaker cone as if it was a drum head and you hit it with a drum stick. It rings out over time and slowly quietits down till you can't hear it. Now do the same thing with a drum head and place your hand on the drum head and hit it again with a drum stick. What happens. Your hand resting on the drum head stops the vibration from moving. Thats is how you dampen a drum. The same principle apply s to a speaker cone. An amp makes the speaker cone move, but it the dampening factor that stops it from continuing to keep moving. An amp with a low dampening factor will make a speaker sound muddy, but an amp with a high dampening factor will sound cleaner because once the sound is produced by the moving cone, it stops the cone from continuing to move in and out. making the speaker sound tight and controlled.
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I'm not sure I'd agree that "damping" factor is the MOST important spec .. I'd go with output power, crosstalk and noise values (S/N Ratio, THD) over it.
 
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oldschool said:
Ok so it may not be the ONLY important factor, but it's one of them. Particularly if your driving subs.
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But WHO uses amps these days ... :)
 
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steve149 said:
OK wiseguy, stand-alone amps .. :)
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I dont use stand alone amps, amps and volts are a part of electricity, I use amps and volts that power a power amplifier to power my speakers.
Well actually I use volts and amps that use power amplifiers to convert into watts to power my speakers not stand alone amps.
 
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oldschool said:
I dont use stand alone amps, amps and volts are a part of electricity, I use amps and volts that power a power amplifier to power my speakers.
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Take my wife .. please
 
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All I can say is my back thanks me every time I load out the EVOX for selling my old Crest and Crown amps and my 4 amp QSC PLX2 rack with Monster power conditioner. The 2 EVOX weigh less than the amp rack did.
 
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I have
4 - EV P4000's
2 - EV P3000's
4 - EV Q1212's
6 - EV Q66's
I - EV P1202
And all passive speakers.
I've never had an amp or speaker fail.
I have 4 - DBX PA2's and use my I pad to control everything on the PA 2's
I like the PA2's because it eliminates pre and post EQ's with onboard limiters, compressors, time delays, RTA, AFS and 6 out x overs all in one unit withe set up wizard .
No need for racks of EQ's compressors, limiters X overs.
Plus stacks of all EV subs, tops side fills and monitors.
I can do a small gig with minimal set up to full blown raves or live sound. using everything .or any size gig in between.
I have 2 Pioneer DJM 5000 mixers and one Allen & Heath GL2400-32 channel live console.

I have zero powered speakers.
 
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Once you go Active, no longer will you be Unattractive ... or something like that .. :)
 
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