Lighted Facade - DIY

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Here is the middle part of my facade. It was build last year and each part weights 5 lb. Replaceable spandex panels.

I like the idea of using the Transparent Coroplast. May buy it just for a quick backup.
 

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I think you'll shoot yourself in the foot for not utilizing a groove and sliding your panels into them. I learned from experience, that not only does it look better, it's much more secure too.

I was going to but I don't have a working table saw. Mine stopped working a year or so ago and I didn't feel like buying another.

I will say if I was going to get another facade I would probably just order it from Ben @ NLFX. I like the Grundorf offering that Erica posted about a couple weeks ago. I think it's called the G-Screen (sp?).

Between the wood, brackets, plastic panels, paint etc I came pretty close to just ordering one pre made. It was cool building my own. But buying it premade is I think better money wise and a lot easier.
 
I was going to but I don't have a working table saw. Mine stopped working a year or so ago and I didn't feel like buying another.

I will say if I was going to get another facade I would probably just order it from Ben @ NLFX. I like the Grundorf offering that Erica posted about a couple weeks ago. I think it's called the G-Screen (sp?).

Between the wood, brackets, plastic panels, paint etc I came pretty close to just ordering one pre made. It was cool building my own. But buying it premade is I think better money wise and a lot easier.

You did a nice job on your facade Atomic.

This is the reason why I bought mine instead of building it. The material, labor and cost would have been minimal in savings compared to one that was built by someone that has built over 20 or 30 of these facades.
 
Cam! Who is building yours?

My grandfather, he is an old school cabnet maker. I don't know what he's using but my dad said he's out of his mind how he has decided to put it together. I wanna say for some reason he is using teak.

I still don't know what panels we will use but I'm guessing we will have a white spandex, black, and some kinda plastic.

It will be a while as his wood shop is in his basement and it's still cold, but my dad promised if it lags he will help pap get it done before my birthday, which is August.

I have a facade so I'm in no hurry, and dad is paying for material to give pap something to do.

When ever it does get finished I will post pictures. As well as a metial list and what it cost to make. Also with my grandfather being a retired engineer, I'm sure I could get copies of the blueprints he is drafting up.
 
I was going to but I don't have a working table saw. Mine stopped working a year or so ago and I didn't feel like buying another.

I will say if I was going to get another facade I would probably just order it from Ben @ NLFX. I like the Grundorf offering that Erica posted about a couple weeks ago. I think it's called the G-Screen (sp?).

Between the wood, brackets, plastic panels, paint etc I came pretty close to just ordering one pre made. It was cool building my own. But buying it premade is I think better money wise and a lot easier.

Total cost to make mine out of select grade pine and the ceiling tiles: $124.

Took me a day to purchase material, route, cut to length, paint and assemble.

And, I can add as many or little panels to my system as I want; I'm not locked into any given size.

I like the Grundorf, but I personally it's overpriced and from what I can see (since I didn't get any answers to my question) it only comes in one size and you're locked into their screen design.

Customizing one of my own allows much more flexibility.
 
I have been building facades with coro for years.
It's the single best thing for backlighting.

I buy it by the pallet and cut it on my big old' panel wall saw.

I would however orient your panels vertically, as they will be much brighter. you sort of defeat the purpose of using the coro to pipe the light when you turn it on it's side.

Vertical is much brighter.

Also, I'd try doing a dado groove all the way up, and pocket drill those corners. Abandon the 45 degrees and go with 90 joints. they will be much stronger, and easier to square up.

I've been selling aluminum facade kits made for coro like hot cakes since I showed them in Vegas..

You can change your panels in under 5 minutes, and your facade will outlast anything else on the market.

That, and it's cleeeeean!

facadepink1.jpg


facadepink2.jpg
 
I have been building facades with coro for years.
It's the single best thing for backlighting.

I buy it by the pallet and cut it on my big old' panel wall saw.

I would however orient your panels vertically, as they will be much brighter. you sort of defeat the purpose of using the coro to pipe the light when you turn it on it's side.

Vertical is much brighter.

Also, I'd try doing a dado groove all the way up, and pocket drill those corners. Abandon the 45 degrees and go with 90 joints. they will be much stronger, and easier to square up.

I've been selling aluminum facade kits made for coro like hot cakes since I showed them in Vegas..

You can change your panels in under 5 minutes, and your facade will outlast anything else on the market.

That, and it's cleeeeean!

facadepink1.jpg


facadepink2.jpg

Where were you a week ago? Lol. Shoot me a PM with information and pricing.
 
What I like is the thin wood frames...These must weigh next to zero....

Steve...what are you using for the rails. Can we see the back/front in normal lighting to see the finish..Do you have a website for these...

Another option is aluminum Frames http://www.nbframing.com/Nielsen/ProfileDetails.cfm?profile=75&top=r.
You can order the lengths you want and have it "Chopped to length with ends at 45degree angle. There is hardware to connect the ends and all you have to do is slip in your panels of choice. It makes for easy change outs!
Visit your local Framer for ideas.
 
good one Houston I was thinking the exact same thing like Window Creening type rails or bathroom shower door type material.there are even PVC (or Durabe plastic) type materials tha might work for this application
 
Thats certainly what it looks like to me as well. This in no way looks like any of the back yard wood ones our good friends have built Or anything like the ones for profit are building. Licensed or unlicensed.
 
good one Houston I was thinking the exact same thing like Window Creening type rails or bathroom shower door type material.there are even PVC (or Durabe plastic) type materials tha might work for this application

Those would be too flimsy! The shower door would be too heavy! All you all are doing is building frames around something but it is framing plain and simple. From my vantage point (Being in the Art & Framing Basis) there are two options. If you want to make a Permanent facade or one with interchangeable panels.
The first option can be made out of wood or aluminum (You can get anodized black which needs no painting) Cut your lengths or order them pre cut with angled corners, assemble then insert the panels using brads or pins to keep them secure.
Second option is a frame within a frame. If it is fabric, you use stretcher bars to hold the fabric on/around that frame. Then you build another frame around it. The inside frame is held in place by clips and can be swapped out with other panels when needed.
A few months ago there was a similar thread like this one and I made a post showing how I went downstairs and built a stretcher bar frame with a canvas painting around it in less than half an hour.
See the thread and post # 8 & 9 here: http://www.ourdjtalk.com/showthread.php?t=28788&highlight=facade
 
It's extruded aluminum...

It's Veeeery Expensive unless you buy 100' or more in one shot..

Plan on about $1.15 an inch for quality extrusion if you're buying it retail...

it drops to about 30 cents an inch past the 100 foot mark.

Spline, and corners are pretty stout also.. like $6 per corner, and the aluminum hinges are not cheap either...

it all weighs less than wood.. I can tell you that!

We made one with a video screen built in also... for use with your short throw projector..
 
It Is cheaper To Buy Off The Shelf.

I have concluded that it is cheaper to buy a Facade off the shelf. It is easy for me to make one myself (I buy Framing Materials @ Wholesale Cost) or I can have my Framer make one for me (I will pay Dealer/Standard Trade Discount Price).
Unless you want something that is so different which is readily unavailable, it is better to buy from a Retail Establishment such as Grundorf via NLFX.
Am I practicing what I preach? Absolutely! I ordered a Facade from NLFX last week, it should arrive soon!

Later on down the road I will build two for Weddings with White molding & Gold Molding and frame within a frame. I'll have all my materials ordered precut and the only thing required is assembly which should be less than half an hour!

You lads are very creative but I have to tell you, those "wheels" have already been invented and been in use by Framers for umpteen years!
 
It's extruded aluminum...

It's Veeeery Expensive unless you buy 100' or more in one shot..

Plan on about $1.15 an inch for quality extrusion if you're buying it retail...

it drops to about 30 cents an inch past the 100 foot mark.

Spline, and corners are pretty stout also.. like $6 per corner, and the aluminum hinges are not cheap either...

it all weighs less than wood.. I can tell you that!

We made one with a video screen built in also... for use with your short throw projector..

My advise is, next time go to a qualified Professional Picture Framer and tell him what you want to do. He/She can provide you with lots of options!
Extruded Aluminum is for construction not framing projects! Trust me I know. I have been in the Art & Framing business since 1985.
If you want to build it yourself he can make you a kit! It will all fit!:sqbiggrin::sqwink:

Here is a company that sells Frame kits!
http://www.dickblick.com/products/nielsen-bainbridge-frame-kits/