Are mounting screws included with neutrik panel mount connectors?

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Not normally (there are some small dealers who add their own) .. You can either use machine screws/washers/nuts or pop rivet them, which is better if you aren't anticipating removing them (you can always drill out the rivets if needed). I usually rivet.
 
shanefrom302 said:
I am wondering if the mounting screws ship with the panel mount connectors sold by Neutrik or do I need to buy them seperately.

for something like this: http://www.markertek.com/Connectors-Adapters/Power-Connectors-Adapters/Neutrik-USA-Inc/NAC3MPA-1.xhtml?NAC3MPA

Thanks
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I would think that they should be included. If you have to buy them get the Flat Head Phillips. I think a #6 might work You will have to determine the length. Use flat & lock washers in the rear to keep the nuts from working loose.
 
Thanks guys!

I ended up buying most of my mounts from Parts Express so I doubt they would include any.

I found this place that sells some(link), I'll use the size info and find a local place or somewhere on the east coast to order from.

Is this something I could go to lowes, home depot or radioshack and find easy? thanks again for the help
 
shanefrom302 said:
Thanks guys!

I ended up buying most of my mounts from Parts Express so I doubt they would include any.

I found this place that sells some(link), I'll use the size info and find a local place or somewhere on the east coast to order from.

Is this something I could go to lowes, home depot or radioshack and find easy? thanks again for the help
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Take one of the connectors to your local hardware store to get the screws. Do not over tighten them on the panel. Good Luck.
 
Yes .. probably not RS, but you should find appropriate screws/washers/nuts at HD, Lowes, Ace or any hardware store. However, they will probably be in steel color (not black) unless they have a large selection. Machine screws are generally in zinc coat, stainless or brass. Black is usually a custom color, so if you don't care, go with zinc coated (you can always spray the tops with flat black). As Canute said, use flat head machine screws, probably 1/2 in long with flat and lock washers and nut (or use a nylon insert lock nut). Rivets are better if you have the equipment as they won't work loose.
 
You lucked out .. the ones around here are mostly cell phones these days.
 
steve149 said:
You lucked out .. the ones around here are mostly cell phones these days.
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I jumped the gun when I made the comment that RS had the screws, they had the right size but the were not flat heads.

I do not have any experience with rivets and decided to see how much a manual rivet gun cost and the price isn't as bad as I imagined. After watching a couple of youtube videos using rivets seems pretty easy. I do not plan on moving the connectors so I think I might give it a shot!

Anything I should look out for when using rivets?




On the neutrik website they have the following info for anyone else that needs the info on what screws/rivets to use:

Which screws/rivets can I use for fastening of receptacles?

SCREWS
Screws for receptacles depend on panel material and panel thickness. We suggest the following:

Metal panel (Steel, Aluminum, Zinc)
- Flat head thread forming screws with Pozidriv DIN 7500 M / zinc plated M3 x length (drilling hole ~ 3.1 mm)
- Flat head metric machine screws with Pozidrive DIN 965A / zinc plated M3 x length (thread M3)

Plastic Panels
PT-flat head screws WN 1413 / zinc plated KA30 x length (depends on material, ~ 2.4 mm)

For various chassis mount versions we offer correspondig screws. (A-Screw-1-8, B-Screw-1-8, E-Screw-1-12)

RIVETS
It is possible to use any aluminum 1/8” or 3.2mm 90° countersunk blind rivet. We suggest drilling a hole diameter of 3.3mm for the panel. It is possible to use pneumatic, electrical or hand riveting tools.
 
Rivet from the outside toward the inside. Size depends on the connector and thickness of the panel, but most likely a 1/8" body diameter with 3/16 - 1/4" head diameter (usually called large head) x 3/8" length (or whatever you need). The rivets at the home centers are probably silver, though black is available online (an example: http://www.ebay.com/itm/BLACK-ALUMI...627?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item35b4b0dd93 ). Most Neutrik connectors are about 1/8" thick.
 
Personally I would not use rivets. if a wire gets loose and you have several connectors on the panel it's going to be difficult to work with. I would get the appropriate screws and avoid headaches in the future. Remember we may think nothing will happen (Come loose) but you know Mr. Murphy.
 
Most connectors go on with 2 fasteners. A 1/8" drill bit will drill out an aluminum rivet in a few seconds. Not a big deal to replace. If you plan on rearranging a lot, then by all means use screws/nuts.
 
steve149 said:
Most connectors go on with 2 fasteners. A 1/8" drill bit will drill out an aluminum rivet in a few seconds. Not a big deal to replace. If you plan on rearranging a lot, then by all means use screws/nuts.
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speaking of Mister Murphy and his law....
you MAY need to pull it apart at a gig to fix it or re-wire it in an emergency
in which case you will not have a drill or a bit with you when you need it.

but rivets ARE very dependable.
you just need to practice on something unimportant before you try it on something valuable
 
I don't generally have spare panel connectors with me at small gigs (never had a problem with the semi-permanent wiring - same reason I rivet), so any repair would generally made back at home. The patch panels I've made were primarily to pull the connections from the devices to the outside of the case, so in an emergency, I could always patch directly to the component itself. My DJ repair kit is usually a few cable ends, a butane soldering iron, and some multipurpose tools. I have a larger kit when I do live sound because I always get surprised on what may need to be fixed on the spot (and it's not usually my gear).
 
I ended up using the screws/nuts I purchased at Radio Shack. They have round heads but now that I put it all together I could care less if they are round heads or countersunk. Here are some pics of my amp rack and the new panel installed.

shanepanel1.jpgshanepanel.jpg
 
shanefrom302 said:
I ended up using the screws/nuts I purchased at Radio Shack. They have round heads but now that I put it all together I could care less if they are round heads or countersunk. Here are some pics of my amp rack and the new panel installed.

View attachment 25764View attachment 25765
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A Countersunk /flat head screw is designed to keep the receptacle in place so it does not move. A round head screw placed in a countersunk hole can cause movement and thus damage to the item which it is supposed to hold. It will be very easy to create a chip and crack in the holes. However, it is your privilege to do as you please. I hope there will be no issues.
 
ahoustondj said:
A Countersunk /flat head screw is designed to keep the receptacle in place so it does not move. A round head screw placed in a countersunk hole can cause movement and thus damage to the item which it is supposed to hold. It will be very easy to create a chip and crack in the holes. However, it is your privilege to do as you please. I hope there will be no issues.
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Thanks, now that I know that I will go ahead and order the proper screws now instead of putting it off and never getting around to it!
 
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