Par 56 internal wiring

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awdj

Mac Daddy DJ
Jan 4, 2007
675
229
Just obtained a bunch of used Par56's, and wanted to just make sure everything was good here. I'm assuming it is, as these were taken down from a fixed installation the day I got them, but can't be too safe.

What I'm wondering about is the incoming wire from the power cable -- the cable from the bulb itself is covered, high-heat cable, and from the ceramic terminal is standard 18ga SJOW cable. Is it OK for it to be that close to the hot bulb?

There were a 1 or 2 lights I'll be re-doing because you could tell they'd gotten too close or touched, at some point, but consider the others to all look like the pictures.

Thoughts and comments welcome. Pictures attached.
 

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OK here goes. As long as the wires are the ones that were installed by the manufacture, you will be ok, as they use Hi - temp wiring that is designed for that can. If you see any that looks like it may not be factory wires, then I would change them, but only use Hi-Temp wiring.
 
Amen on all the above.
most of the lamps heat is focused in the other direction
but the proper wires are the key
those look pretty new to me...
 
That's just it, I really don't know. I don't have reason to suspect otherwise, but some of the cans had more extra wire than I would guess is normal (just a couple inches) in there, so I've loosened the cable clamp and pulled everything not necessary out.

Cable jacket says:
(UL) E77975 SJOW 18AWGX3C 105°C 300V VW-1 WONDERFUL Y.T. (continued...)
CSA LL43774 SJOW 18AWGX3C 105°C 300V FT1 FT2
 
A bit odd...

Part of the reason I'm asking is because of something I find a bit peculiar, but might just be something as simple as making the ends/plugs more flexible...???

Any idea what's going on here??? All cables are insulated, as in no bare wires, but still a bit odd...

Again, the markings on the cable jacket are a few entries above. Any help/info appreciated.

Thanks!
 

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Are you asking why this happens or are you looking for a fix....

The molded on plugs aren't part of the wire caseing and therefore after repeated pluggin and unplugging they can separate... you can do one of two things.... wrap black electrical tape or clip them off and install new plugs.
 
As far as I know, these were a fixed installation for most of their life. It almost looks like they were cut back on purpose this way.
 
I cannot fathom why anyone would waste their time on incandescent fixtures.
L.E.D. fixtures offer so much more versatility, energy savings, and easy of operation.
Ben & Kat at NLFX sold me L.E.D. Par cans last year. They paid for themselves within 6 weeks!
They don't have bulbs that burn out, I do not need GELS to produce the color I want, and they don't weigh much!

I literally threw out my PAR 38 cans --- into the garbage--after purchasing the L.E.D. Pars from NLFX.
 
I'm going to hesitantly respond to this, hoping not to start an incandescent/LED war, by saying that first of all, for the price I paid for these, I might have gotten one and a half LED cans, these will get used several times a year, and I have yet to be impressed with the brightness or throw of any LED PAR fixture out there.

It's not the same kind of light, and just doesn't work for my use. Don't get me wrong, for a smaller indoor dance floor, wedding, or fixed installation in a bar, etc. I think they would excel. You will not, today anyway, see any/many outdoor shows of any decent size using LED fixtures, and the reason for it isn't price. Obviously, I've got *much* smaller requirements than that, but it's a whole different ballgame - apples/oranges.
 
Re-reading your message, I found the reason for your comment ---- you're comparing to a Par 38. That's about as good as I've seen any Par can, up to LED Par 64. Comparable to a Par 38.

If you've ever used an actual Par 64 or Par 56, you'd know that they're not comparable to a Par 38.
 
The current L.E.D. Par lamps are plenty bright, deliver excellent color temperature, and have all but replaced incandescent fixtures.
Enough said.
Didn't mean to hi-jack your thread about the wiring. My bad.