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What Texture Would You Use?

  • Leather Look

    Votes: 7 100.0%

  • Light Orange Peel

    Votes: 0 0.0%

  • Medium Orange Peel

    Votes: 0 0.0%

  • Heavy Orange Peel

    Votes: 0 0.0%

  • Light Spatter

    Votes: 0 0.0%

  • Medium Spatter

    Votes: 0 0.0%

  • Heavy Spatter

    Votes: 0 0.0%

  • Stone

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Total voters
    7
ahoustondj

ahoustondj

Mac Daddy DJ
Aug 13, 2007
20,235
3,465
Texas
I am about ready to order Paint to refurbish my Woofer Cabinets, I have four of them. I am mixed on what finish/texture to buy. They get moved a lot. Cabinets have wheels on them (Tilt & push/pull)
What would you choose and why? Vote In The Poll Please!

See the textures here: http://www.acrytech.com/store.asp?pid=27962&catid=19771#textures

http://www.acrytech.com/store.asp?pid=29155

The cabinets are here.
http://www.ourdjtalk.com/album.php?albumid=44&pictureid=481

http://www.ourdjtalk.com/album.php?albumid=44&pictureid=479
 
I should have done this first!

I called the company and here is the info I got. The textures that they display are achieved by specialized spray equipment. The product composition is the same so it is how the material is applied that will determine the look of the final application. One Gallon can do approx 80 square feet. If you spread it thinner maybe 100 square feet and if spread thicker maybe 65 square feet. I hope this helps. I will look into seeing what rollers with textures are available locally!
Precisionpower has already ordered his but has not posted results as yet.
 
We need sample pictures. I know what orange peel is in paint, but if this is a truck liner type coating I'm thinking that's what it looks like when you spray too much and move the gun too slowly leaving a gross looking almost smooth surface that is very thick and easily peels with abrasion. I assume that's not what it means in this instance.

Scott
 
scharris_99 said:
We need sample pictures. I know what orange peel is in paint, but if this is a truck liner type coating I'm thinking that's what it looks like when you spray too much and move the gun too slowly leaving a gross looking almost smooth surface that is very thick and easily peels with abrasion. I assume that's not what it means in this instance.

Scott
Click to expand...

I will be using a textured roller and more than likely would have to be satisfied with whatever result I get.
 
OK! Paint ordered. I will take before and after pics when it comes.
 
I painted a couple of my Peavey cabs, after removing the carpet that my cat and ferret played with.

Paint doesn't stick all that well -- you need something to molecular bond with the base material, if you want it to last more than a couple scrapes...

If I were to do it again, I would re-carpet them, or first apply a base that would bond with the wood, then bond with the final layer on top chemically. Otherwise, you have to keep painting them...
 
SoftJock Rick said:
I painted a couple of my Peavey cabs, after removing the carpet that my cat and ferret played with.

Paint doesn't stick all that well -- you need something to molecular bond with the base material, if you want it to last more than a couple scrapes...

If I were to do it again, I would re-carpet them, or first apply a base that would bond with the wood, then bond with the final layer on top chemically. Otherwise, you have to keep painting them...
Click to expand...

Dura-Tex should bond very well to the wood... altho I'd sand it to rough the surface a bit.... since you're appliing texture anyway it wont hurt....
 
You want a medium spatter finish!

Spatter covers up imperfections extremely well ie: seams/joints, screws, knots, etc.
 
I'm working on getting a warm place to make a mess in..:sqlaugh:

Dura-Tex must be applied in temps Above 65 Degs and minimal humidity..
As it's just getting above freezing here, And my garage isn't insulated yet, Holding 65 deg and above will be somewhat difficult.

Results shortly..
 
I think you folks are missing the molecular bonding.

You can throw anything on, and it will look nice -- but will it stand up over time...?

Prime it properly, where it will bond over and under, and the finish will last for decades of abuse...

Just my thoughts :)
 
We haven't had much trouble with ours Rick, and we're going on several years of re-covering. Carpet doesn't hold up and maintain a nice look. We've only touched up a couple spots on a couple cabs (out of 24 cabs, that's not bad). Only issue we had was on the 2 oldest of our sub cabs, I didn't sand down the old adhesive well enough and we had a couple spots on the bottoms that didn't adhere well. Otherwise, bonding was not an issue, and we've had roadies running them into door jams for a couple years now! ;-)
 
My original trade is in Automotive Collision Repair and Refinishing. I worked for 11 years selling paint supplies and educating people on how to properly refinish cars at my father’s supply store. Not much different from what you are doing except it is wood and very porous. Everyone one here is right. You need to sand them as paint sticks to paint scratches. It locks into the scratch. Keep in mind that the deeper the scratch the harder it will be to fill in and sand scratches will show. Find out what the paint company recommends for sand paper grit. When a surface is smooth it will peel very easy when scratched. You will need to prime them this will also help with the bonding of the paint. If you are to let the primer fully dry you will also need to lightly sand the primer coat.
 
What no LATEX?!?!?!?!?!?!?
235.jpg

:D:D:D:D:D:D:D
 
Precisionpower said:
I'm working on getting a warm place to make a mess in..:sqlaugh:

Dura-Tex must be applied in temps Above 65 Degs and minimal humidity..
As it's just getting above freezing here, And my garage isn't insulated yet, Holding 65 deg and above will be somewhat difficult.

Results shortly..
Click to expand...

Bryan, I am glad you pointed out that fact. I had no idea about the appropriate temp for applying the paint. Well here in Texas, we won't have to wait long for weather change.
 
The factory paint on my cabs will take some work to remove! 60 grit on a wood sander doesn't really phase it......

I gotta call in the morning to see if they want them taken to bare wood,
or if a really good scuff will give acceptable bonding.
 
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