Thinking About a Winter Project

steve149

Veni, Vidi, Lusi
Sep 26, 2011
31,587
Prospect, CT
Yep... You need one with an easily removable stand. VESA mountable might be nice too, but not a necessity.


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I'm thinking more of recessing the monitor in 1/4" - 3/8" and then clamping it in place .. either with something like a mirror clip or a band on each side.

Maybe something like this cut from a wood block to the correct depth.

1537898337182.png
 
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DJ Bobcat

DJ Extraordinerror
Nov 8, 2014
10,530
Oklahoma City
I'm thinking more of recessing the monitor in 1/4" - 3/8" and then clamping it in place .. either with something like a mirror clip or a band on each side.

Maybe something like this cut from a wood block to the correct depth.

View attachment 35126
Would probably work, but I would do something more like this...
1537902189513.png
... not exactly to scale, but close... Where the white is your recessed opening, the black is framing, and the light gray is the front surface. The darker gray represents aluminum strips, and the square in the middle is the VESA mounting location on the back of your monitor. You could add another horizontal strip for added support.

You also need to be cognizant of the locations of the DVI, VGA, or HDMI connectors.
 
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steve149

Veni, Vidi, Lusi
Sep 26, 2011
31,587
Prospect, CT
Would probably work, but I would do something more like this...
View attachment 35127
... not exactly to scale, but close... Where the white is your recessed opening, the black is framing, and the light gray is the front surface. The darker gray represents aluminum strips, and the square in the middle is the VESA mounting location on the back of your monitor. You could add another horizontal strip for added support.

You also need to be cognizant of the locations of the DVI, VGA, or HDMI connectors.
That's a little tougher as most monitors don't have a flat back. Hitting just the edges would make it easier.
 
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DJ Bobcat

DJ Extraordinerror
Nov 8, 2014
10,530
Oklahoma City
That's a little tougher as most monitors don't have a flat back. Hitting just the edges would make it easier.
They're all pretty flat where the VESA Mount is and the VESA mount always sticks out the furthest. Also, the aluminum strips are somewhat pliable. Another thing to consider is that the edges of monitors were not designed for mounting; the thin ones are pretty flimsy around the frame.
 
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steve149

Veni, Vidi, Lusi
Sep 26, 2011
31,587
Prospect, CT
They're all pretty flat where the VESA Mount is and the VESA mount always sticks out the furthest. Also, the aluminum strips are somewhat pliable. Another thing to consider is that the edges of monitors were not designed for mounting; the thin ones are pretty flimsy around the frame.
First step is to find a monitor that's close .. then we can figure out how to make it work.
 

DJ Bobcat

DJ Extraordinerror
Nov 8, 2014
10,530
Oklahoma City
First step is to find a monitor that's close .. then we can figure out how to make it work.
I’ve given this a little more thought, and I found a 21.5” monitor that’s only 1.2” thick with VESA mount capability. At that size, it fits within the 12” opening of the frame of my Facade.

I was gonna buy a vinyl logo to put on a fourth facade panel I already made, but I could mount the monitor in that frame instead, and display my logo on the monitor. I already have an a second video output from the light control/backup PC in my Large System that I put there for connecting to a projector, which I have not ever used for a DJ gig. It would be easy to use that port for the Facade-mounted monitor.

I think I’m gonna do it. The only drawback on the monitor I can see is the way the power and video connectors are situated...



...cables would stick straight out (rather than down). I think there’s enough room to deal with that though. There was a complaint in the review about the size of the power supply plug... doesn’t use an IEC plug, but has an external power supply. I think I can deal with that pretty easily too. For just $100 for the monitor and other materials (and the facade panel I already have), what the heck???
 

DJ Bobcat

DJ Extraordinerror
Nov 8, 2014
10,530
Oklahoma City
Just measured and there’s plenty of room for cables to stick out from the connections on the back of the monitor...

... The white surface with holes on the left in the above pic is the back of the top panel of my facade. Plenty of room.

One thing I hadn’t considered though, is the location of the power button. Most monitors have them on the bottom right side of the frame, in the front. If you flush mount, setting the frame against the back of the facade panel, the power button becomes inaccessible. Have to figure out a solution for that.
 

steve149

Veni, Vidi, Lusi
Sep 26, 2011
31,587
Prospect, CT
Just measured and there’s plenty of room for cables to stick out from the connections on the back of the monitor...

... The white surface with holes on the left in the above pic is the back of the top panel of my facade. Plenty of room.

One thing I hadn’t considered though, is the location of the power button. Most monitors have them on the bottom right side of the frame, in the front. If you flush mount, setting the frame against the back of the facade panel, the power button becomes inaccessible. Have to figure out a solution for that.
Just switch the power line .. they make outlet switches like these ..

1538843662813.png
 

DJ Bobcat

DJ Extraordinerror
Nov 8, 2014
10,530
Oklahoma City
Just switch the power line .. they make outlet switches like these ..

View attachment 35246
That’s certainly do-able, but having the power button pressing against a flat surface (like the back of the facade frame) means that any pressure against the facade or the rear of the monitor could inadvertently switch the power button on or off. I found a monitor that has the power button on the bottom edge of the frame (facing down). That should resolve the problem. This monitor also has an IEC power cord... much better....

BenQ GW2280 21.5" 1080p LED Monitor

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KYCSRQI/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_zKoUBbTM2BW4P
 
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Proformance

DJ Extraordinaire
Nov 6, 2006
3,252
I would not attempt to do this as a table topper. Real estate on teh table is already at a premium so I would make it free-standing like a facade. It would be easy to make two different front panels so I'd have the option of going with or without the video screen included. I hate to be hauling around a screen when it's not needed just to fill a hole in the facade.

I'd also use a TV that has auto-media play so that I could use it without a computer - just put in a thumb drive and let it roll.
 

Proformance

DJ Extraordinaire
Nov 6, 2006
3,252
The backlit bar an be done in foam-core, or more durable sign board materials. The bar is essentially a tall table and everything below is theatrix.
 

steve149

Veni, Vidi, Lusi
Sep 26, 2011
31,587
Prospect, CT
I would not attempt to do this as a table topper. Real estate on teh table is already at a premium so I would make it free-standing like a facade. It would be easy to make two different front panels so I'd have the option of going with or without the video screen included. I hate to be hauling around a screen when it's not needed just to fill a hole in the facade.

I'd also use a TV that has auto-media play so that I could use it without a computer - just put in a thumb drive and let it roll.
I thought about it, but I don't care for a full facade. If I make this 44-45" wide, it shouldn't be too much of a difference to what I use right now .. we'll see. The cost of some Poplar or maple 1x2s aren't that much to experiment with.
 
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