I'm thinking more of recessing the monitor in 1/4" - 3/8" and then clamping it in place .. either with something like a mirror clip or a band on each side.
Maybe something like this cut from a wood block to the correct depth.
Thinking About a Winter Project
- Thread starter steve149
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Maybe something like this cut from a wood block to the correct depth.
Would probably work, but I would do something more like this...
... not exactly to scale, but close... Where the white is your recessed opening, the black is framing, and the light gray is the front surface. The darker gray represents aluminum strips, and the square in the middle is the VESA mounting location on the back of your monitor. You could add another horizontal strip for added support.
You also need to be cognizant of the locations of the DVI, VGA, or HDMI connectors.
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That's a little tougher as most monitors don't have a flat back. Hitting just the edges would make it easier.
They're all pretty flat where the VESA Mount is and the VESA mount always sticks out the furthest. Also, the aluminum strips are somewhat pliable. Another thing to consider is that the edges of monitors were not designed for mounting; the thin ones are pretty flimsy around the frame.
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First step is to find a monitor that's close .. then we can figure out how to make it work.
I’ve given this a little more thought, and I found a 21.5” monitor that’s only 1.2” thick with VESA mount capability. At that size, it fits within the 12” opening of the frame of my Facade.
I was gonna buy a vinyl logo to put on a fourth facade panel I already made, but I could mount the monitor in that frame instead, and display my logo on the monitor. I already have an a second video output from the light control/backup PC in my Large System that I put there for connecting to a projector, which I have not ever used for a DJ gig. It would be easy to use that port for the Facade-mounted monitor.
I think I’m gonna do it.[emoji4] The only drawback on the monitor I can see is the way the power and video connectors are situated...
...cables would stick straight out (rather than down). I think there’s enough room to deal with that though. There was a complaint in the review about the size of the power supply plug... doesn’t use an IEC plug, but has an external power supply. I think I can deal with that pretty easily too.[emoji4] For just $100 for the monitor and other materials (and the facade panel I already have), what the heck???[emoji1]
Just measured and there’s plenty of room for cables to stick out from the connections on the back of the monitor...
... The white surface with holes on the left in the above pic is the back of the top panel of my facade. Plenty of room.[emoji4]
One thing I hadn’t considered though, is the location of the power button. Most monitors have them on the bottom right side of the frame, in the front. If you flush mount, setting the frame against the back of the facade panel, the power button becomes inaccessible. Have to figure out a solution for that.[emoji4]
... The white surface with holes on the left in the above pic is the back of the top panel of my facade. Plenty of room.[emoji4]
One thing I hadn’t considered though, is the location of the power button. Most monitors have them on the bottom right side of the frame, in the front. If you flush mount, setting the frame against the back of the facade panel, the power button becomes inaccessible. Have to figure out a solution for that.[emoji4]
Just switch the power line .. they make outlet switches like these ..Just measured and there’s plenty of room for cables to stick out from the connections on the back of the monitor...
... The white surface with holes on the left in the above pic is the back of the top panel of my facade. Plenty of room.[emoji4]
One thing I hadn’t considered though, is the location of the power button. Most monitors have them on the bottom right side of the frame, in the front. If you flush mount, setting the frame against the back of the facade panel, the power button becomes inaccessible. Have to figure out a solution for that.[emoji4]
That’s certainly do-able, but having the power button pressing against a flat surface (like the back of the facade frame) means that any pressure against the facade or the rear of the monitor could inadvertently switch the power button on or off. I found a monitor that has the power button on the bottom edge of the frame (facing down). That should resolve the problem. This monitor also has an IEC power cord... much better.[emoji4]...
BenQ GW2280 21.5" 1080p LED Monitor
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KYCSRQI/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_zKoUBbTM2BW4P
I would not attempt to do this as a table topper. Real estate on teh table is already at a premium so I would make it free-standing like a facade. It would be easy to make two different front panels so I'd have the option of going with or without the video screen included. I hate to be hauling around a screen when it's not needed just to fill a hole in the facade.
I'd also use a TV that has auto-media play so that I could use it without a computer - just put in a thumb drive and let it roll.
I'd also use a TV that has auto-media play so that I could use it without a computer - just put in a thumb drive and let it roll.
The backlit bar an be done in foam-core, or more durable sign board materials. The bar is essentially a tall table and everything below is theatrix.
I thought about it, but I don't care for a full facade. If I make this 44-45" wide, it shouldn't be too much of a difference to what I use right now .. we'll see. The cost of some Poplar or maple 1x2s aren't that much to experiment with.
OK .. time to work on this .. bought the 24" version of this monitor so I can get at the controls (not buried in the bezel) .. came in this week. So I'm going to play around with the table saw next week to see if I can get the cuts accurate enough for the vertical board to lock into the upper and lower ones. If not, need to get a router table .. I got rid of my old one years ago.I’ve given this a little more thought, and I found a 21.5” monitor that’s only 1.2” thick with VESA mount capability. At that size, it fits within the 12” opening of the frame of my Facade.
I was gonna buy a vinyl logo to put on a fourth facade panel I already made, but I could mount the monitor in that frame instead, and display my logo on the monitor. I already have an a second video output from the light control/backup PC in my Large System that I put there for connecting to a projector, which I have not ever used for a DJ gig. It would be easy to use that port for the Facade-mounted monitor.
I think I’m gonna do it.The only drawback on the monitor I can see is the way the power and video connectors are situated...
...cables would stick straight out (rather than down). I think there’s enough room to deal with that though. There was a complaint in the review about the size of the power supply plug... doesn’t use an IEC plug, but has an external power supply. I think I can deal with that pretty easily too.For just $100 for the monitor and other materials (and the facade panel I already have), what the heck???
I’ll be interested to see how it comes out.
Not sure how your design works, but it would be pretty easy to build a frame to hold the monitor by making the necessary cuts on the table saw before assembling the four sides. Then the frame can be attached to the Facade with an opening through which the monitor can be viewed.
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Quick sketch (looking at back) ..
Top and bottom rails run length of table topper.
Vertical rails on the sides of monitor and at the 2 ends.
Going to cut a dado recess on one edge of top and bottom piece .. maybe 1/2 the depth and 1/2" wide. Same on verticals, but on both sides of the 2 middle ones. That gives me a recess for the monitor and 2 recesses on the outer sides for 2 small panels. Need to also create a lip at the top/bottom of the verticals to mate to the ones on the top/bottom rails (opposite side).
Going to try on the table saw first with some scraps.
