Reworking My Large System

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I'm still dickin' with this monitor mount. I'm hesitant to attach anything to the slant-top rack that requires drilling holes until I'm 99% sure it's right. I have two options going... the first uses a 1 1/2 inch round post. The second uses a 3/4 inch square post. With the round post, I'll need to add some reinforcement to the rack to improve the rigidity, but I have everything I need to make it work. With the square post, I have some very cool steel brackets with which to attach it to the rack (no reinforcement required and fewer holes to drill in the rack), but I'd still need to order one more part to make it work, meaning another delay. I'm really growing weary of the delays due to awaiting delivery of parts.[emoji1]

I'm probably over-thinking this stuff too much. While I've been trying to make sure my modifications to the rack look like they were made in the factory, the fact of the matter is; they're probably too specific to my setup that the rack would never be re-sellable once they're made, so I might as well go ahead and pull the trigger.[emoji1] In all likelihood, I'm going to COMPLETELY redesign my large system again next year, so this rack will only be used for one season. On the other hand, if I do it right, I could use this SKB slant-top rack for my small system, simply by mounting AOI computer on it, rather than the dual monitors, so I may end up disposing of the Gator Cases slant-top rack rather than the SKB.

For the dual monitors, I plan to place the mounting post near the top left corner of the rack, in order for the monitor of my primary PC to be directly in line with the controller. This is the way I'd been setting up the monitors previously. The light control/ video computer monitor is off to the left. Either option (square post or round post) will require relocating the post to the center of the rack if I want to mount the AOI computer on it later to transform it to a small system, but using the square post will leave only a single 3/8" hole, where the mount for the round post would leave four holes, which I'd probably feel compelled to refill (due to OCD[emoji1]).

I gotta figure this out and make a decision today. Also, the 2U rack I ordered MAY be delivered today... Amazon says so, but tracking does not say it's "Out For Delivery" yet, though it does show that it's in OKC. Looks like I'll know pretty soon if it will solve my height issue.[emoji4]
 
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I'm still dickin' with this monitor mount. I'm hesitant to attach anything to the slant-top rack that requires drilling holes until I'm 99% sure it's right. I have two options going... the first uses a 1 1/2 inch round post. The second uses a 3/4 inch square post. With the round post, I'll need to add some reinforcement to the rack to improve the rigidity, but I have everything I need to make it work. With the square post, I have some very cool steel brackets with which to attach it to the rack (no reinforcement required and fewer holes to drill in the rack), but I'd still need to order one more part to make it work, meaning another delay. I'm really growing weary of the delays due to awaiting delivery of parts.[emoji1]

I'm probably over-thinking this stuff too much. While I've been trying to make sure my modifications to the rack look like they were made in the factory, the fact of the matter is; they're probably too specific to my setup that the rack would never be re-sellable once they're made, so I might as well go ahead and pull the trigger.[emoji1] In all likelihood, I'm going to COMPLETELY redesign my large system again next year, so this rack will only be used for one season. On the other hand, if I do it right, I could use this SKB slant-top rack for my small system, simply by mounting AOI computer on it, rather than the dual monitors, so I may end up disposing of the Gator Cases slant-top rack rather than the SKB.

For the dual monitors, I plan to place the mounting post near the top left corner of the rack, in order for the monitor from my primary PC to be directly in line with the controller. This is the way I'd been setting up the monitors previously. The light control/ video computer monitor is off to the left. Either option (square post or round post) will require relocating the post to the center of the rack if I want to mount the AOI computer on it later to transform it to a small system, but using the square post will leave only a single 3/8" hole, where the mount for the round post would leave four holes, which I'd probably feel compelled to refill (due to OCD[emoji1]).

I gotta figure this out and make a decision today. Also, the 2U rack I ordered MAY be delivered today... Amazon says so, but tracking does not say it's "Out For Delivery" yet, though it does show that it's in OKC. Looks like I'll know pretty soon if it will solve my height issue.[emoji4]
No way to use that folding laptop stand I sent to mount the monitors?
 
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Sure is a good thing you don’t have to pay labor on this build, it’s taking forever

Yeah... the problem is not so much actual labor, but planning, design, and logistics.[emoji1] I think about things too much, then it takes a lot of time to acquire parts. Then there's the time expended trying stuff out that ends up not working as planned (I guess you could call that R&D). I've had a few of those.[emoji1] Yesterday I tried out a device I thought would allow me to run both VGA monitors over a single CAT5 cable. It didn't work. It probably doesn't seem like a big deal to have two cables, but having two cables means making two holes in the rack to plug them into. I'd rather have only one. And the fewer cables means quicker setup... one cable isn't much, but they add up.[emoji1]
 
I really don't think it will fit and even if it does, the front lip on top of the the R1906 expander will render the bottom rack unit in the 2u roto rack pretty much inaccessible so you are buying a roto rack just to use as a filler. Makes no sense to me especially since I really don't think the R104 dj capsule will interlock on top of the 2u roto rack.

Well... The 2U SKB rack came today... and... you were right. Doesn't fit. DANG!!![emoji37]... Oh, well. It goes back tomorrow, and it's back to the drawing board on the height adjustment. I always have the option of putting a wood frame underneath the base rack, but I'm a little concerned about adding a lot of additional weight. That's today's down side.

Today's UP side; I got the front section of the slant-top rack cut out, and I fabricated some structural reinforcements to make up for what I removed. I also cut the new keyboard shelf sections. I had a little boo-boo when cutting the front section. I taped a piece of steel along the edge of the line to cut, but the tape didn't hold and slipped about an eighth of an inch, so there's a little gap on the left side I'll have to repair. Not a big deal; just requires additional time.[emoji4]

My new table saw is FABULOUS! It was really useful when cutting the new keyboard shelf pieces. Unfortunately, with the curves and bends of the molded plastic rack, each piece of structural reinforcement had to be custom cut with a jig saw, and then sanded fit the curves of the rack. Very time consuming. Nevertheless, it was good progress for one day. I'll be back at it tomorrow, and I'll take some pictures to post.[emoji4]
 
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For cutting plastic around a case, my preferred tool would be an oscillating tool (Fein, Dremel, etc). I have 2 (corded Dremel and battery powered Milwaukee) and they work great for plunge cuts and smooth cuts.
 
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For cutting plastic around a case, my preferred tool would be an oscillating tool (Fein, Dremel, etc). I have 2 (corded Dremel and battery powered Milwaukee) and they work great for plunge cuts and smooth cuts.

I used a Dremel. I thought the steel (straight edge) guide would help, but I actually did better without it. I use that Dremel for LOTS of jobs. They're really handy. Mine is battery powered, but the down side is, when your battery runs down, it takes time to recharge it. So I bought a second battery, which just came last Saturday. Now I can Dremel non-stop.[emoji4]


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I used a Dremel. I thought the steel (straight edge) guide would help, but I actually did better without it. I use that Dremel for LOTS of jobs. They're really handy. Mine is battery powered, but the down side is, when your battery runs down, it takes time to recharge it. So I bought a second battery, which just came last Saturday. Now I can Dremel non-stop.[emoji4]


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Dremel rotary or oscillating? I have both, but the oscillating one is much easier to control for cutting.
 
I won't say I told you so............over the years, I'm sure your wife has said that more than enough times for the both of us.[emoji23]

You don't have to say"I told you so", 'cause I pretty much did that for you.[emoji1] The only bad thing about these little failures is they cost time... a little bit of money too because I have to ship it back, but mostly it's the time.[emoji4] Not gonna get too upset about it though. I'm the type of person who believes that when life gives you lemons, you make lemonade![emoji4] So I've already come up with a solution I KNOW will work and It's gonna be a doozy! Already ordered the materials. I just hope I have the skills to pull it off.[emoji4] But first I need to finish the slant-top rack mods...
 
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Work on the slant-top rack continues later this afternoon. Life keeps interfering.[emoji4] Just because I can't do actual work, it doesn't mean I can't think about it. And there's another issue I need to resolve...

I put a lot of thought, effort (and a little money) into making the back of my rack as attractive as possible, because that's the side clients mostly see. But even though I have my external plugins neat and accessible, patch panels don't eliminate cables. So most of us use a facade or a scrim (to block the view of hanging cables), which saves time during setup by minimizing the amount of cable managing you have to do.

With my current Large System (or I should say my previous Large System, because the old one no longer exists), I used a table over the rack, and my controller case sat on top of the table. I had a cloth runner/table cloth that hung down to the floor on the back side of the table (facing the audience) and it covered the view of the rack. With this new Large rack, I can't use a table over the top because my controller is mounted in the top.

Given this situation, some kind of facade is probably the best solution. I'm going to build one myself in order to make one the EXACT size I want. I don't need a HUGE facade (like those sold commercially) since I don't use a table. I only need one about 30" wide, and perhaps 48"-52" tall. Something compact, light weight, and quickly set up is in order. In another thread, I asked about colors and materials. I'm leaning toward a white padded facade of leather (or faux leather), but I could cover it with a spandex fabric in white or black. I could even make a lighted version with led light strips. Since I'm making it myself, I can make more than one facade, allowing me to change it out depending on the nature of the event. I already have the construction plans and the hardware I need. I just need to decide on the cover material... and of course I need to build it.[emoji4]
 
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You could always do a simple mini-facade, the height/width of the case and set maybe 4 inches in front of the case to hide the whole back. put L-brackets on the bottom facing the rack and stick them under the rear feet to hold it.
 
You could always do a simple mini-facade, the height/width of the case and set maybe 4 inches in front of the case to hide the whole back. put L-brackets on the bottom facing the rack and stick them under the rear feet to hold it.

That's almost exactly what I was planning to do. Two great minds!!![emoji1]...


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Donlopj might be on to something.[emoji1]... I'm beginning to think this might be the neverending project. I spent several hours working on the slant-top rack today, and it still looks pretty much the same as when I started today.[emoji1] The difficulty with this SKB rack is that everything on the underside/inside is rounded, so putting supports in requires custom making and shaping each piece.

I keep going back-and-forth on the monitor mount. Today I went back to the square post option, and it's ready to install, once I get the support installed under the front edge of the top where the monitor stand will be mounted. This option requires just one (bolt) hole to be drilled, instead of the four the round post would require, and I can always mount the round one over the hole if I decide I'm unhappy with the square one.

I got one half of the keyboard shelf made... the half that's made from the piece I cut out of the front of the rack. Again, the shape of the piece I cut is SO weird, it took me some time to get it somewhat squared up so it can be used as a flat shelf, but I think I got it. My magnetic closers came (from China) yesterday and they look like they're gonna work perfectly.[emoji4]

Now I need to fill in all the rough areas, sand, and paint before I can mount anything in or on the rack. I'm pretty much done for today though. After cleaning up the mess I made out in the garage, I don't think I wanna make any more messes today.[emoji4]
 
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