My Case Project

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steve149

Shine on you crazy diamond
Staff member
Sep 26, 2011
28,175
45,944
Connecticut
Planned to get to it this winter and almost done ...

Wanted to make my smaller system self-contained with power distribution, a wireless mic and a feedback reducer. Added Powercon in/outs to the case along with an interior wired strip. Added 2 BNC connectors to mount the antennae out back and velcroed the wireless receiver and Sabine unit under the Denon.

Still working on cable routing and then will velcro the power supplies down (and get semi-permanent USB and power for laptop). I bought a 4 outlet box for under the table and made Powercon AC cables so I can either run power to that box and daisy-chain to the controller case .. or vice-versa. Made a small XLR snake to drop down under the table as well so I can make all speaker connections hidden.

Big issue is the antennae are limited by the glider shelf .. might need to relocate the BNCs to the side .. we'll see ..

Pictures ...

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Neutrik style power connectors - I'm impressed!
The blue power in connectors are Neutrik (bought those) .. the gray power out connectors are Neutrik-style and came with some Blizzard lights. All of the chassis connectors are Neutrik. Cost difference is minimal.
 
Now with both Steve and the Bobcat setting a poor example by reworking everything, it's time for me to do something to keep the wife at bay. However, I'm working on a much smaller level!

I've switched back to Mixvibes Cross DJ - as good as Serato is, Cross just works better for me. The ol' Vestax Typhoons only work with the 32 bit version of Cross, so for an upgrade to the 64 bit version, and being the cheap bxxxxxd that I am, I grabbed an American Audio VMS2 off ebay that "just stopped working" after the third use for $50, shipped. Came in the original box, looks brand new, and is built like a tank!

The cracked case of the TPS2111 "power autoswitch" tells the story. They probably used a wall wart rated much higher than the recommended 6 volts.

Solid state devices like this work on smoke - when it fails, the case will crack, often letting the smoke escape. Since I don't have the original smoke to put back in (very difficult even under the best conditions), I have already ordered a few pieces from...China! Brave New World!!


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Now with both Steve and the Bobcat setting a poor example by reworking everything, it's time for me to do something to keep the wife at bay. However, I'm working on a much smaller level!

I've switched back to Mixvibes Cross DJ - as good as Serato is, Cross just works better for me. The ol' Vestax Typhoons only work with the 32 bit version of Cross, so for an upgrade to the 64 bit version, and being the cheap bxxxxxd that I am, I grabbed an American Audio VMS2 off ebay that "just stopped working" after the third use for $50, shipped. Came in the original box, looks brand new, and is built like a tank!

The cracked case of the TPS2111 "power autoswitch" tells the story. They probably used a wall wart rated much higher than the recommended 6 volts.

Solid state devices like this work on smoke - when it fails, the case will crack, often letting the smoke escape. Since I don't have the original smoke to put back in (very difficult even under the best conditions), I have already ordered a few pieces from...China! Brave New World!!


View attachment 36356
SMDs suck to desolder and resolder .. Good Luck ..
 
SMDs suck to desolder and resolder .. Good Luck ..
Yeah. I'll just destroy the old one in place and de-solder each pin individually, rather than risk damaging the board. Re-soldering the new one without solder bridging the pins will be the challenge. I'll think of something!

The image I posted is magnified about 5x !!!


Edit - Ha! "Drag" soldering!! Starts about 7 minutes in -
Drag Soldering
 
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sole-der
 
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Planned to get to it this winter and almost done ...

Wanted to make my smaller system self-contained with power distribution, a wireless mic and a feedback reducer. Added Powercon in/outs to the case along with an interior wired strip. Added 2 BNC connectors to mount the antennae out back and velcroed the wireless receiver and Sabine unit under the Denon.

Still working on cable routing and then will velcro the power supplies down (and get semi-permanent USB and power for laptop). I bought a 4 outlet box for under the table and made Powercon AC cables so I can either run power to that box and daisy-chain to the controller case .. or vice-versa. Made a small XLR snake to drop down under the table as well so I can make all speaker connections hidden.
No audio in/out jacks? I see you mentioned the snake - but would you store it in this case?
 
No audio in/out jacks? I see you mentioned the snake - but would you store it in this case?
I thought about audio but most of the Denon jacks are pretty accessible. I have 1 2 channel snake for the main outs that would easily store inside .. I might make one with main and booth outs though.
 
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Now starting on the lower rack to go with the Denon case for larger events. I had a 10U Gator case and rebuilt my caster board, but the case is too shallow for my Denon Media player and doesn't have rear rack rails. I looked at adding a set of rails (I can live with the Denon sticking out a hair) but the built in handle makes it tough, so I'm looking for a new case.

Lower rack will have additional wireless mics, Rane mic mixer, wireless transmitter, special EQs and effects, digital mixer and my media player.

In the mean time, I picked up a Samson S-Zone mixer to control the lower rack ... normally used for commercial setups in restaurants/bars, but it gives me 4 inputs and 4 outputs and I can select which inputs go to which output. This allows me to run the output of my Denon (either mains or booth) to one of the inputs and have 4 different standardized zones to drive. I expect Zone 1 will be my main speakers, Zone 2 will be front or center fill or booth, Zone 3 will have a pair of Delay units and use my IEM transmitter to drive remote speakers and Zone 4 will be an Aux or Video feed point. Each zone has EQ, volume and stereo/mono switching.

Downside is the euroblock connectors, but I'll bring them out to a patch panel. One nice feature is the built in monitor speaker to listen to any zone.

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Sounds nice. Technically, beyond my comprehension! For what it's worth I have been forced to re-work the road case which I did last Summer. Due to hand surgery today (!)...AND lower back surgery in July. I've turned in to a hunt-and-pecker typist for a few weeks. Weight is now a major factor...age too.
 
So I rebuilt the caster board to fit the new case, painted it and mounted it. I don't care for the design of the case with the 2 runners pointed up, but it won't work the other way since the locks are at top. Locks into the 2U case I bought earlier though and ends up at a perfect height to put my glider case on top .. podium style .. if space is at a minimum.


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I’m kinda wondering though @steve149, other than not having the top rack with your new setup, what makes this new rack better than the SKB units you sold to me? Looks like about the same number of spaces, and the SKB had built-in rollers?[emoji4]
 
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I’m kinda wondering though @steve149, other than not having the top rack with your new setup, what makes this new rack better than the SKB units you sold to me? Looks like about the same number of spaces, and the SKB had built-in rollers?[emoji4]
That one was 6U, this is 10U and I need every space.
 
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