A Different Speaker.

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ahoustondj

Mac Daddy DJ
Aug 13, 2007
20,235
3,465
Texas
5 grand (and that's their cheap system). Can you PLEASE try to keep it to equipment that the typical mobile DJ might have a prayer of affording?
Great Eye Candy won't you say? ;)
 
Great Eye Candy won't you say? ;)

It's a box, and specs on the 12s show max db at 127db. I don't even see the 3-ways listed on their details page. Contrast that with these:

Carvin mid-grade, 3 way, 128db. $595
http://www.carvinguitars.com/manuals/SCx1253.pdf

Cheaplights also has some 3-ways but not sure I'd trust them. My biggest problem with the wood 3-ways is weight. Everything is in the 75-95lb range. I'm a fan of 3-ways for tops.
 
Carvin has a similar speaker (passive only), though I would hesitate to claim them being equal, but at $579 each, might be worth a look (and they're made in the US): http://www.carvinguitars.com/products/SCX1253

- System Type: Dual 15-inch 3-Way, Co-planar bass reflex
- Frequency Response: 50 Hz – 20 kHz (-10DB); 60 Hz – 18 kHz (-3 dB)
- Coverage Pattern: 90H x 60V
- Crossover: 3-Way with Speaker Guard™ HF protection
- Crossover Frequencies: 350 Hz, 2.0 kHz (internal)
- Recommended external crossover frequency: 350 Hz @ 12dB/oct. or greater
- Power Full Range: 800w Continuous /1600w Program /3200w Peak
- Recommended Amplifier Power: 500 – 1600w
- Sensitivity (1w @ 1m): 101dB 60-350Hz; 98dB 350-18KHz
- Maximum SPL: 128dB Cont. / 134dB Peak
- LF Driver: Dual 15-inch Heavy Duty 2.5-inch VC
- MF Driver: 6.5-inch Heavy Duty 1.5-inch VC
- HF Driver: 1-inch exit Mylar 1.75-inch VC
- Nominal Impedance full range: 4 ohms
- Bi-amp LF: 4 ohms 800w /1600w /3200w
- Bi-amp MF/HF: 8 ohms 150w /300w /600w
- Enclosure: 13-Ply Premium Russian Baltic Birch
- Finish: Black DuraTex™
- Transport: 2 Recessed Handles
- Grill: Black powder coated steel
- Connectors: Two 4-pin twist lock connectors, Two 1/4-inch connectors
- Dimensions (H x W x D): 29 in x 19.75 in x 22.75 in (737 mm x 505 mm x 580 mm)
- Net Weight: 71 lb (32 kg)
- Made in San Diego, California

scx1253-nogrille.jpg$T2eC16JHJFoE9nh6m+EuBQ3NHHVm+Q~~60_35.JPG

edit: I notice the 2 images aren't the same .. I suspect that they changed the location of the hand holds before release and 1 image is prerelease and the other post.
 
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Carvin has a similar speaker (passive only), though I would hesitate to claim them being equal, but at $579 each, might be worth a look (and they're made in the US): http://www.carvinguitars.com/products/SCX1253

This is weird. If you drill down to their specs page it shows the cab as weighing 71 lbs. If you go to the datasheet PDF it shows 88 lbs. I can handle 70 but 90 is too much. Great sensitivity (101db) and solid power handling.
 
This is weird. If you drill down to their specs page it shows the cab as weighing 71 lbs. If you go to the datasheet PDF it shows 88 lbs. I can handle 70 but 90 is too much. Great sensitivity (101db) and solid power handling.

I think it goes with the picture mismatch .. one prelim, one post .. the guess would be which is which.

The double woofers are intriguing. If they had a dual 12 with a 2"VC on the compression driver .. I think I might bite.
 
I think it goes with the picture mismatch .. one prelim, one post .. the guess would be which is which.

The double woofers are intriguing. If they had a dual 12 with a 2"VC on the compression driver .. I think I might bite.

The el-cheapo, 3-ways I have (plastic) sure do sound good and they're only 41 lbs.
 
- LF Driver: Dual 15-inch Heavy Duty 2.5-inch VC
- MF Driver: 6.5-inch Heavy Duty 1.5-inch VC
- HF Driver: 1-inch exit Mylar 1.75-inch VC

Dang, it just hit me, dual 15s for LF. I do like the 6.5 for MF and horn for HF. The only thing I don't like is the 2.5" voice coil on the 15s. I'm curious to know how much low end these dudes would generate. Wondering if I couldn't drop subs on the smaller events.
 
Dang, it just hit me, dual 15s for LF. I do like the 6.5 for MF and horn for HF. The only thing I don't like is the 2.5" voice coil on the 15s. I'm curious to know how much low end these dudes would generate. Wondering if I couldn't drop subs on the smaller events.

One issue might be that they don't have tripod stand receptacles .. probably due to weight. With the lower woofer back at a 45 deg angle, there might not be room for one at the right balance point.
 
I'm a fan of 3-ways for tops.
Are you including a sub with that setup or are you looking at running it full range? May I ask why you prefer a three way for tops??
 
Are you including a sub with that setup or are you looking at running it full range? May I ask why you prefer a three way for tops??

I'm running 3-way tops with my bi-amp setup. You may have missed my comment but I had the chance to A/B the 3-way tops directly against the 2-ways, both being used with subs this past weekend. The 3-ways are much smoother, without any harshness that most 2-ways put out. If I read it correctly, those Carvins can be run in full-range or can be powered by multiple amps.

- - - Updated - - -

One issue might be that they don't have tripod stand receptacles .. probably due to weight. With the lower woofer back at a 45 deg angle, there might not be room for one at the right balance point.

That's okay. Not sure I'd want to try and hoist 71 lbs onto a speaker stand. These would sit on top of my subs of course, they'd be sitting a foot or so lower than what I'm currently doing.
 
That's okay. Not sure I'd want to try and hoist 71 lbs onto a speaker stand. These would sit on top of my subs of course, they'd be sitting a foot or so lower than what I'm currently doing.

Or you make a riser out of plywood to match the speaker contour and place it on that.
 
I'm running 3-way tops with my bi-amp setup. You may have missed my comment but I had the chance to A/B the 3-way tops directly against the 2-ways, both being used with subs this past weekend. The 3-ways are much smoother, without any harshness that most 2-ways put out. If I read it correctly, those Carvins can be run in full-range or can be powered by multiple amps.
I will explain the reason I asked but first. 12" and 15" speakers are usually not designed for Mids and Highs & Vocals. Even if you Bi-amp or use a Crossover to a 2 Way or 3 way top, you will still find that the internal crossover will be dealing with frequency separation. I have two and three way systems and there has been debates about this in the past. Yes indeed, you will hear things from a Passive 3 way that you won't hear from a passive 2 way. You will also hear things from a Tri amped system that you won't from a Bi amped. I prefer to call it a true 3 way speaker system when you have ONE crossover separating One incoming signal to a two way system Mids & highs in one cabinet and Bass in another cabinet or a three way system Highs in one cabinet, Mids in another and Bass in another. As a compromise on space for a three way, one can have both the Mids and Highs in one cabinet but they should each be fed their appropriate signal and amplified separately.

If what you truly seek is the sound you get from a three way then you want your mids and highs up in the air and bass down below. The clarity would be much more precise that having bass or Mid bass notes also coming from above.

I have had an ongoing project in mind and the only reason I have not invested in the expense of building that project is because I really don't have much use for it at this time. It will be a modification of my 3 way system. I am going to use 2 10" speakers and one Horn in a single cabinet for each side. Everything will be gutted internally. The Tweeter Horn will receive power directly from an amp that is fed only High Notes. The two Midrange 10" wired in Parallel (16ohms x 2) will receive power directly from an amp that is fed only Midrange Notes. The Bass cabinets will receive power directly from an amp that is fed only Bass Notes.

Mids and highs up in the air cut through cleaner when they are just Mids and highs coming from speakers designed solely for mids and highs.
My first home built (Early 70s) system which I still have is three way Passive. (4 tweeters, 2 Midranges and One Bass in each cabinet with a 3 way crossover inside each box.) My first Professional system (Late 70s) which i still have but the tweeter Box has been modified consists of separate Tweeter Box, Midrange Box and of course the JBL Scoops.

The Ultimate system for sound and clarity is a 4 way. Tweeter, Mids, Mid Bass & Bass.

So based on where I see you are heading that is something you may want to consider. A true, raw, dedicated 3 way system without any interference of onboard crossovers.
 
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And who doesn't like a good 3-way ? :D
 
So based on where I see you are heading that is something you may want to consider. A true, raw, dedicated 3 way system without any interference of onboard crossovers.

I know what you're talking about and yea, it does give a different tone. Maybe one day but for now, just swapping out a 2-way passive for a 3-way passive makes a distinct improvement in how smooth the reproduction is, across the spectrum. I'm still cash-poor at the moment so gear purchases are on hold. I'm thinking my next may be the T39 subs, followed by some kind of upgrade on my current 3-way tops. That Carvin S-cab sounds like it might be the ticket but I'm just still not sure I want an 80lb cabinet to contend with in a mobile rig.
 
I know what you're talking about and yea, it does give a different tone. Maybe one day but for now, just swapping out a 2-way passive for a 3-way passive makes a distinct improvement in how smooth the reproduction is, across the spectrum. I'm still cash-poor at the moment so gear purchases are on hold. I'm thinking my next may be the T39 subs, followed by some kind of upgrade on my current 3-way tops. That Carvin S-cab sounds like it might be the ticket but I'm just still not sure I want an 80lb cabinet to contend with in a mobile rig.

You can also go with the Carvin "bose" tops: http://www.carvinguitars.com/products/TRX3903

trx3903-columnspeaker.jpgcarvin_trx3903a_2.jpg
 
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BTW, I sympathize with you on the weight. My Yorkville U15B tops weigh in at 80# and are a bear to get onto a tripod stand. I usually lay the speaker on its back on a piece of carpet, push the tripod onto it while it is horizontal, then tilt the whole assembly up in one shot .. usually needing to walk the tripod a bit into place. With help I can lift the speaker onto the tripod directly, but the Ultimate Telelocks I use don't go low enough for me to lift onto them comfortably by myself. Normally I just place the subs and lift the tops onto them .. a bit easier to do, even if I am giving up a bit by not coupling them.