Please explain
- Thread starter Destin
- Start date
Looks like slopes for a subwoofer.
High Pass: This cuts these frequencies out from the sub. 12 db abd 24 db are angles of the slope (how narrow and fast the cut is.
The 90Hz is a high pass. This will restrict the sub's upper frequency range and send all frequencies above 90Hz on an 18db slope to your tops.
My question wouuld be: What are the speakers in question?? Are they active or passive?
Best,
Paul
High Pass: This cuts these frequencies out from the sub. 12 db abd 24 db are angles of the slope (how narrow and fast the cut is.
The 90Hz is a high pass. This will restrict the sub's upper frequency range and send all frequencies above 90Hz on an 18db slope to your tops.
My question wouuld be: What are the speakers in question?? Are they active or passive?
Best,
Paul
Hi Destin:
Consider a Dbx 223XL crossover. this will allow you high pass at 40Hz, and you will be able to set the high pass to your tops. I have 3 of these, and I love 'em. A higher dollar option would be a Dbx driverack PA or 260. These have a bit of a learning curve, however can also act as EQ, compressor and feedback eliminator in your system.
I use a Dbx driverack PX for my powered (active) speakers. I cannot stress the importance of feeedback elimination enough, especially if you plan to entertain at weddings.
Stay balanced thru your entire signal chain up to the amps. You will need 2 amplifiers to successfully biamp these passive subs with passive tops. You may also go hybrid, I've used the crossover to set up with passive woofers and powered (active) tops with great success as well.
Best,
Paul
The specs indicate that the sub is designed to operate primarily in the 40 to 90 Hz region. You don't mention what tops you will be transitioning to, but 90 Hz will typically be good for tops with a 15" woofer/mid .. generally you're at 110-120Hz with 12" tops or you'll use softer roll-off. The dbx units Paul mentions are all good. I have a dbx driverack PA I use for a small system and the extra features over an analog x-over (feedback reduction, delays) were important to me .. that plus I got it for less than $300, so the price difference wasn't great. As also mentioned, you'll need additional power for these. You can either use a separate amp or if you are driving just one of these subs, you might get away with running the sub off of one amp channel and daisy chaining the tops off the other channel and run your system in mono (this is becoming the standard in small clubs for live music) if your amp has enough juice.