Can anyone recommend a good intro amp. I am doing DJ-ing mainly as a hobby, 8-10 venues a year. And as a part time audiophile I can't stand crap equipment and I am fighting the urge to buy some top of the line equipment. Right now I use my HK home theater amp but it's a real pain to unhook and rehook. I am planning on building my PA speakers to save a couple bucks. Any info would be great.
Intro Amp
- Thread starter Thomas
- Start date
Carvin offers a lightweight version of their DCM amps now. One of their lower-powered models is integrated. I haven't read any reviews on them yet. But the price ain't bad.
I'm sure others will add their thoughts.
I'm sure others will add their thoughts.
Without knowing your budget its hard, but look at the QSC PLX line, all are great for mobile DJing.
I agree with Papa and Brian... PLX would certainly be ideal, but you may find it to be more than you want to spend, of course... we don't know what that is. QSC's RMX series is solid, but not as lightweight as the PLX and EV's new Q series is very affordable and solid too. On the lower end there is QSC's GX series, otherwise we have some real cheap amps from American Audio, etc. It just all depends.
Ben
Ben
If your an audiophile, then you might want to be careful with a class H amp on the highs! I tried it once and I thought it sucked. I used the PLX's Class H ones on the subs, lows, and mids, but on the highs it just didn't work for me. I switched to an Altec class A/B on them, and it made quite a difference. I don't know why, it just did for me (personal opinion)
On the other end of the spectrum, I've never compared it myself, but I always used a PLX 2402 bridged into each sub cabinet (4 ohm load). Many people told me that using a heavy iron amp in stereo mode would yield much better bass. This make sense to me because the amp would have more headroom to be able to deliver those punches. The 4 ohms per channel is leaving a bit if headroom on the big iron amp, and the 4 ohm load bridged (basically 2 ohm per channel stereo load to the amp) on the PLX is pushing it to the limits when your hitting close to clipping. The big iron being the RMX4050HD, 5050HD, Crown MA5002, and stuff like that.
I would imagine one would see the same thing in the midbass/midrange area, but those drivers normally aren't pushed too hard because that's where the hearing is most sensitive in the human's range of audio perception.
So, I would suggest tri-amping and having the ability to tweak a little if your a hi-fi nut!
On the other end of the spectrum, I've never compared it myself, but I always used a PLX 2402 bridged into each sub cabinet (4 ohm load). Many people told me that using a heavy iron amp in stereo mode would yield much better bass. This make sense to me because the amp would have more headroom to be able to deliver those punches. The 4 ohms per channel is leaving a bit if headroom on the big iron amp, and the 4 ohm load bridged (basically 2 ohm per channel stereo load to the amp) on the PLX is pushing it to the limits when your hitting close to clipping. The big iron being the RMX4050HD, 5050HD, Crown MA5002, and stuff like that.
I would imagine one would see the same thing in the midbass/midrange area, but those drivers normally aren't pushed too hard because that's where the hearing is most sensitive in the human's range of audio perception.
So, I would suggest tri-amping and having the ability to tweak a little if your a hi-fi nut!
I'm no audiophile, but, I've got a PLX1804 and an old MX-700. The PLX1804 is a 2 tier class H amp, and the MX-700 is a class AB amp. I can't tell any difference in the highs, or the any of the sound between the amps.
Perhaps the Class H lightweight amps do provide a slightly inferior sound to the old classic transformer class AB amps, but its a tradeoff for weight. Does anybody want to lug around an 80+ lbs QSC RMX5050?
you'd be surprised how much somebody is willing to carry around if they feel it makes a positive enough difference in the sound...and it matters to them personally.
On the other hand, I've heard some really good sounding systems lately with class H amps, but they were designed from the ground up with a particular specification and components to be all matched up.
It's all a matter of perception though, one person might not be able to tell the difference, where the other person can...the audiophile business thrives because of this.
On the other hand, I've heard some really good sounding systems lately with class H amps, but they were designed from the ground up with a particular specification and components to be all matched up.
It's all a matter of perception though, one person might not be able to tell the difference, where the other person can...the audiophile business thrives because of this.
I was thinking around the $200-$500 range on the amp. The PLX amps looked great and would be something I would use for my home theater or if I performed more, but I don't think I mentioned that the DJ-ing I do is the free kind. Friends family etc. The venues range from 40' x 50' community center to a small basketball gym. The speakers I will build to match the amp. Nothing too fancy just some basic front loaded PA with a reasonable bass response. It's something I really enjoy doing, but unfortunately it doesn't pay as well as the day job does. The main thing for me is to stay out of Radio Shack. I need reasonable quality that I can build on if I ever decide to this more.
I was just looking at Behringer Europower 2000 and 2500 is this just crap or a descent amp. The THD is a little high for my taste but the price is pretty good.
Its a surprisingly solid amp, I believe we have a few users on here. I've never herd any complaints about it.
I was noticing that the Behringers I was looking were Type H amps and I am more used to the Class A/B amps. Heavy weight = horsepower, I guess I am old school. As far as the audiophile part, I said I was part time. The equipment for my personal use is exquisite, but most people do not appreciate that quality, and the price difference for that extra quality is extreme. Most people that I know think their factory car stereo sounds just fine. To me they sound flat and unresponsive, but I need to price my system according to what is going to sound good to others, excess money spent on an amp for no reason could buy me an EQ or maybe some Rockit software, etc.