Outdoor Uplighting

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Which exact models? I've done outdoor events with my Chauvet slimpar56s. Plenty of tents, or outside walls but my lights aren't really strong enough do something as large as trees. The one piece of advice I can tell you is that in rainy conditions, I use gallon ziplocs to protect the fixtures. It diffuses a bit but it sure beats killing a fixture with rain.
 
I've uplighted trees before. not to put too fine a point on it, it was a pain. At this particular venue, there wasn't a like a natural tree canopy and it was summer so a lot of natural light until later then usual (9:30-10, with a scheduled end at 11). and it didn't "throw" up into the tree as well as I would have liked. Usually when I do uplights, I get compliments on them, this one I didn't. I can't remember the model of the ones I used (they aren't mine) I have the paperwork somewhere and could dig it up.
 
Which exact models? I've done outdoor events with my Chauvet slimpar56s. Plenty of tents, or outside walls but my lights aren't really strong enough do something as large as trees. The one piece of advice I can tell you is that in rainy conditions, I use gallon ziplocs to protect the fixtures. It diffuses a bit but it sure beats killing a fixture with rain.
The model is EZPar 64. I do not think she is expecting me to light the entire canopy; I will manage this expectation in our planning meeting. Thanks for the tip on the Ziplocks, but if it is raining I will not deploy the uplights at all.
 
The model is EZPar 64. I do not think she is expecting me to light the entire canopy; I will manage this expectation in our planning meeting. Thanks for the tip on the Ziplocks, but if it is raining I will not deploy the uplights at all.

If you're lighting a tent, easy-peasy. With sidewalls you shoot from the ground. If open sides you hang from the roofline and shoot along the tent ceiling. If you're setting outside and it's going to cost you $$$ to not put out uplights, use the ziplocs. I don't care how hard it rains, those things will handle it, especially if you're using ez-pars. On fixture strength, if you do need to light trees or shrubbery, you can double or triple up on fixtures.
 
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I had a question on how you guys run power to your lights in a tent scenario. I just bought 10 of them, but unfortunately they are not linkable (not with power, but they are DMX linkable). I was thinking of buying 10' extension cords with the three-way outlets and plugging them in there and running out the next cord via the three-way, however I'm concerned about power loss and the fact that daisy-chaining power cords is never a good idea. Any tips???
 
I had a question on how you guys run power to your lights in a tent scenario. I just bought 10 of them, but unfortunately they are not linkable (not with power, but they are DMX linkable). I was thinking of buying 10' extension cords with the three-way outlets and plugging them in there and running out the next cord via the three-way, however I'm concerned about power loss and the fact that daisy-chaining power cords is never a good idea. Any tips???

The best thing is 18-gauge wires with Add-a-tap plugs. I have a bunch of 25 and 50 foot cables made up with plugs every 5 ft. Standard extension cords are almost impossible to get a clean look, and they're slower to install and remove. Along with the add-a-tap cords, I have 1ft and 1.5ft NEMA cords. If you're hanging the fixtures, you can throw the add-a-taps on top of the tent, hang the fixture from the roofline and you're done. On a ground install, make sure the tent walls are pegged down with the add-a-taps just inside the wall, on the ground.
 
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Go with a a multi-tap extension cord like this: Milspec 14-Gauge Multi-Outlet Power Cable D19006340 B&H Photo

or this lower cost one: Elite Core SP-MOS-10 Stage Power 14 AWG Multi-Outlet Stringer 10 Outlets 52'

They make them in several lengths and different outlet intervals.

_5_sjtw_14_3_prpwr_mlti_otlt_1420047316000_1098803.jpg

Not meaning to argue, there's no way I'd use a big, honkin cable like that for uplighting installs. It's way over-kill for the watts being drawn and the cable is heavy and hard to work with, not to mention an eyesore. I'd also mention that the plugs aren't movable. With add-a-taps, if you need an outlet at a different point, it takes 10 seconds to pop a new one in place or move an existing one. I do hate losing the ground but the convenience and the look is much better IMHO. Not to mention those honkin cables are honkin expensive.
 
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The best thing is 18-gauge wires with Add-a-tap plugs. I have a bunch of 25 and 50 foot cables made up with plugs every 5 ft. Standard extension cords are almost impossible to get a clean look, and they're slower to install and remove. Along with the add-a-tap cords, I have 1ft and 1.5ft NEMA cords. If you're hanging the fixtures, you can throw the add-a-taps on top of the tent, hang the fixture from the roofline and you're done. On a ground install, make sure the tent walls are pegged down with the add-a-taps just inside the wall, on the ground.

Rick, Do you have any pictures of what you're talking about? I'm not an electrical guy, and I can't find exactly what you're talking about on the 'net
 
Rick, Do you have any pictures of what you're talking about? I'm not an electrical guy, and I can't find exactly what you're talking about on the 'net

2609b-buwatermark_261_general.jpg
OUTLET, IN-LINE, 10AMP, FEMALE, BROWN (2609B-BU)

One tip, make sure your electrical cable has a small insulation jacket. The lamp cord they sell at Lowes is bulky and will hardly close in around the add-a-tap (quick connect). I'd probably check with beckelectric and see if they have lamp cord with a narrow jacket. Also, I usually install a more traditional female power connector (screw-on type) at the end of each line. That lets you daisy-chain multiple lines. I've run 15-20 fixtures (Chauvet ezpar 56) on a single line without any kind of overload issues. I typically use gaff tape to clean the lines up on the install. One other thing. When you plug your unit into the quick connect, bend the lamp cord around the ground plug to bypass it.
 
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Not meaning to argue, there's no way I'd use a big, honkin cable like that for uplighting installs. It's way over-kill for the watts being drawn and the cable is heavy and hard to work with, not to mention an eyesore. I'd also mention that the plugs aren't movable. With add-a-taps, if you need an outlet at a different point, it takes 10 seconds to pop a new one in place or move an existing one. I do hate losing the ground but the convenience and the look is much better IMHO. Not to mention those honkin cables are honkin expensive.
From a liability standpoint, I would never use an extension cable without a ground. I agree, the cables are thicker than needed, since they are made for backline use as well.
 
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Thanks! After some further digging, I saw 250' rolls of "zipcord" for $35 and each female add-a-tap was $.70...Not bad! the lack of ground does worry me a bit though.
 
They do make lighter weight 16ga ones as well .. this one is in green .. not sure if available in black .. 50Ft 16/3 Multi-Outlet Stinger Power Distribution Cords Dark Green

0001909_50ft-163-multi-outlet-stinger-power-distribution-cords-dark-green.jpeg
 
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Thanks! After some further digging, I saw 250' rolls of "zipcord" for $35 and each female add-a-tap was $.70...Not bad! the lack of ground does worry me a bit though.
It's tough .. especially in a tent scenario .. I would probably have the units on a ground fault as well, which I believe NEEDS a ground to work properly. Since the units are on the ground and subject to handling and potentially liquids, I would be safe.
 
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Are wireless rechargeable lights available for rent in your area?
Would be a lot less hassle and fewer placement restrictions.
 
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Thanks! After some further digging, I saw 250' rolls of "zipcord" for $35 and each female add-a-tap was $.70...Not bad! the lack of ground does worry me a bit though.

You have to use whatever you're comfortable with. I have to admit, the lack of a ground did worry me but in practice I can't say that it's ever been a problem. From a function standpoint, the add-a-tap lines are the best way to power lighting fixtures, my opinion. The cable is flexible, unobtrusive and easier to hide than bulky cabling. There are times also where it's very good to be able to insert a new plug into a line at a specific point (it avoids having to use a longer NEMA cable to reach the bigger plug (messy-looking on the install). I'll also note that I've taken some cues from my competitors. Pretty much all the lighting companies around here use lamp cord and add-a-taps for their LED fixtures. The LED units sip very little power from the wall so you can stack a bunch of fixtures on any wiring segment and not worry about over-heating. If you're using incandescent cans (300-500watts) then, of course, the bigger wires/plugs would make sense. By the way, I never run non-LED units off these wires.
 
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