Basically the same price as the QSC KW181. I personally find the QSC more musical, but the EV hits a bit harderr.
EV ETX 18SP's
- Thread starter aguilas583
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NSL is about 30 minutes from me. no shipping..but alas, sales tax
When you buy things, ship them to me .. voila .. no sales tax.
The Danley is here! The specs are correct size wise...but in person it seems so much bigger. Now to figure out my Behringer Ultradrive pro and this passive speaker set up with the rest of my active tops. I'm a newbie to passive set ups so a lot of research is upon me, and I may ask a stupid question or two so I apologize in advance. 
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Enjoy - that's an AWESOME sub ...
Honestly, the only difference with a passive setup is YOU have to set up the crossover .. either in the amp (some have DSP) or as you have, in an external crossover or driverack/speaker processor.
Personally, I would put a steep or shelving low pass filter around 30Hz or so (you can play with the actual value) and then a 12db sloped curve (try the various options) based around your top size (90 Hz for 15", 100 for 12", 120 for 10:, 150 for 8").
I would also low pass or crossover to the tops using an inverse setup in that 90-150Hz range.
Honestly, the only difference with a passive setup is YOU have to set up the crossover .. either in the amp (some have DSP) or as you have, in an external crossover or driverack/speaker processor.
Personally, I would put a steep or shelving low pass filter around 30Hz or so (you can play with the actual value) and then a 12db sloped curve (try the various options) based around your top size (90 Hz for 15", 100 for 12", 120 for 10:, 150 for 8").
I would also low pass or crossover to the tops using an inverse setup in that 90-150Hz range.
Thanks! This sub is a beast and I will
be getting used to it along with the new speaker processor.
Thanks for the tips on the crossover points. Danley in their specs suggested a 25hz high pass filter at 24db Butterworth. I think am going to do what you suggested as well and cut it off at around 100hz since my tops are all 12's. I got a terrible hun when I was messing with it very quickly yesterday, but I was using a 3.5 mm connection into my mixer. I will try it with my laptop and sound card today or tomorrow.
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Considering this is a folded horn, you will probably have to delay the tops as well. Looks AWESOME though!
+1 Forgot about that ... even with the top sitting on the bass cab, you'll need at least 7ms of delay. (and I should have known since I had a pair of Yorkville Unity subs with a similar design)
Technically TH118s are tapped horns not a traditional folded horn. They won't really extend lower in frequency in groups like folded horns will.
I've seen several postings of people reporting the sound output is about equal to a couple double eighteen bass reflex subs (respected double eighteens), but I haven't formally tested this myself. I got mine a few years ago. They are beasts with very clean deep accurate bass. You can't move them up and down stairs alone (too heavy and bulky). One thing I really wish they had were rubber feet. I'm curious, Agilas583, are the locking skids on yours made of rubber? The skids on mine were sprayed with the same enclosure paint.
Mine have rubber locking skids. I haven't been able to crank these yet but the bass is so amazingly clear on them. I do recognize my previous sound references are peavys and the KW181's but I am so impressed. I will pay for it when I have to move it to gigs. 160 lbs is not light. Luckily it's two of us always at the gigs where the Danley will be used.
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What kind of amp are you running with the th118? If you have any question Dj Gaffle on here can answer them for you. I think he has 4 th118's. Just remember that your sound is only as clean as the worse product in your worst in your signal path. The only reason that I say that is because I tried a behringer(sp) crossover and eq years ago and they sounded horrible. Started using BSS mindrive and omnidrives, and BSS eq and difference was amazing. Driveracks are also pretty good. Also in the bass department the amp that is being used is very very important. You can cheap out on amp for tops and not really notice much. Cheap out with an amp that's not up to par for sub duty, and your subs won't have the stump, impact, and definition they should.
Have fun
Have fun
That Danley looks to be the same size and weight of my old Yorkie ls801ps. It gets old, humping those monsters around.
I am using a crown XLS 2002 for the sub and a Behringer Ultradrive dcx 2496 as a processor. Still very new to the sound game so I am slowly realizing how equipment affect other items. The sound files and soundcard output from my laptop is good, now it's the in between stuff that I have to wait and upgrade.
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You know if you really want to ring the Danley out that you need 10x the power of the XLS2002 ... You're really up to an iTech level to make them growl.
I do apologize if this is a stupid question, but if a subwoofer is rated for 1700W at 4 ohms, and an amplifier is rated for 2100W bridged at 4 ohms, wouldn't that amp be enough to power the subwoofer to its capabilities without damaging the speaker, and give the amp some headroom?
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No problem having 2-2.5 times RMS power feeding a good subwoofer. I know lots of sound companies that do that, and I have for years with no damage to subs. Good clean power, and plenty of it to spare. Running amps in bridged mode puts added stress and produces more heat from the amplifier. Much greater chance of you running the smaller amp to limit or clipping and causing damage to the speaker. I think that gaffle might run MA12000's per pair on his.
Take a look at the Crown spec sheet for your model amp and see what effect bridging has on T.H.D. and damping factor. If running an amp bridged to a sub of that calibre, I would be looking at something higher up Crown's lineup. Rent or borrow an old skool MA5000vz, and hook it up to sub, and see what happens.
Take a look at the Crown spec sheet for your model amp and see what effect bridging has on T.H.D. and damping factor. If running an amp bridged to a sub of that calibre, I would be looking at something higher up Crown's lineup. Rent or borrow an old skool MA5000vz, and hook it up to sub, and see what happens.
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The 2100w of the XLS is "peak", the 1700w of the Danley is continuous. Maybe my 10x was a bit of an exaggeration, but as Phase mentioned, it's not uncommon to have 2-3x the continuous rating on the amp. The Danley has a 3400w program rating and probably a higher peak rating.
Also, running an amp bridged will put a lot more strain on it, so you really don't want to be real close to the limits in bridged mode.
Don't get me wrong, the XLS2002 will work with the Danley .. but if you want to open it up, it'll take a beefier amp.
Good information all around. So based on what you guys have said, I can feed be sub more than 1700W of power (to a certain point understandably) and no damage will be done to the speaker?
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