Behringer setup & Bi-Amping?

[Ttown2]

New to the portable Live Sound scene so I figured this would be the best place to ask this question.

I just bought a whole package of Behringer stuff to start off my system. Here is the order of the stuff on my rack setup:

-Behringer UB1222FX-Pro
-Monster Power 2500 Pro
-Behringer CX2310 Crossover
-Behringer EP4000 Amp
-Behrginer EP4000 Amp

all this running to a pair of Behrginer B1520 Pro's and a pair of Behringer B1800X Pro's


So, I tried flipping the subs to "Bi-Amping" instead of "Passive" and run some 4-pole Speakon cables to carry the low and high signals - that didnt work. Now the only way for me to get BOTH subs working with everything is to flip the subs to "Passive" mode and wire the highs thru one EP400 and the lows (subs) thru the other EP4000.

Anyone good with the Behringer brand or know of a good way to wire these bad boys? having some big issues, thanks!

 

[djrox]

New to the portable Live Sound scene so I figured this would be the best place to ask this question.

I just bought a whole package of Behringer stuff to start off my system. Here is the order of the stuff on my rack setup:

-Behringer UB1222FX-Pro
-Monster Power 2500 Pro
-Behringer CX2310 Crossover
-Behringer EP4000 Amp
-Behrginer EP4000 Amp

all this running to a pair of Behrginer B1520 Pro's and a pair of Behringer B1800X Pro's


So, I tried flipping the subs to "Bi-Amping" instead of "Passive" and run some 4-pole Speakon cables to carry the low and high signals - that didnt work. Now the only way for me to get BOTH subs working with everything is to flip the subs to "Passive" mode and wire the highs thru one EP400 and the lows (subs) thru the other EP4000.

Anyone good with the Behringer brand or know of a good way to wire these bad boys? having some big issues, thanks!

May I ask, "Why or based on what criteria did you choose Behringer?

 

[Ttown2]

Here is a schematic of what I was trying to do in the 'Bi-Amping' mode...

 

[Ttown2]

May I ask, "Why or based on what criteria did you choose Behringer?

Decent power output and Name recognition. I've dealt with some of the Behringer boards and stuff in the past in a production sense... I figured the portable live sound stuff by Behringer would be a good entry level start.

The main focus was getting a minimum 400W cont system for under $3500. Thoughts>?

 

[jokerswild]

Here is a schematic of what I was trying to do in the 'Bi-Amping' mode...

First of all if you're going to bi-amp this system.... you need to dedicate one amp for your Mid/High and the other amp should be dedicated to Lows.

L/R Full range signal from mixer to your Crossover

Crossover set to 2-way stereo with Mono Sub aka 2x3 mode

From the crossover's High output L/R go into Amp 1 set stereo then L/R from amp 1 to your Tops

From the Crossover's Low(mono) output to Amp 2 Input A set this amp for either Mono Parallel or Bridged (depending on power needs of your subs) then take (if in parallel) your L/R to each individual sub or (in Bridged)

Output A to one sub and then slave the other sub to the first.

 

[djrox]

Decent power output and Name recognition. I've dealt with some of the Behringer boards and stuff in the past in a production sense... I figured the portable live sound stuff by Behringer would be a good entry level start.

The main focus was getting a minimum 400W cont system for under $3500. Thoughts>?

First and as a general rule, I would never trust, based on personal experience and experiences of others I respect, use or purchase Behringer power amps or speakers. I no longer own a single piece of their gear. There are too many reliable alternatives that provide stellar results at truly valuable prices.

Regarding your system, Your schematic seems to spec a logical signal chain.

Do you have the 3/2 way switch properly set?

 

[Ttown2]

First of all if you're going to bi-amp this system.... you need to dedicate one amp for your Mid/High and the other amp should be dedicated to Lows.

L/R Full range signal from mixer to your Crossover

Crossover set to 2-way stereo with Mono Sub aka 2x3 mode

From the crossover's High output L/R go into Amp 1 set stereo then L/R from amp 1 to your Tops

From the Crossover's Low(mono) output to Amp 2 Input A set this amp for either Mono Parallel or Bridged (depending on power needs of your subs) then take (if in parallel) your L/R to each individual sub or (in Bridged)

Output A to one sub and then slave the other sub to the first.

Thanks for the response... I did dedicate the top amp for Mid/High and the bottom amp for Low. I am running the CX 2310 in 2-Way stereo mode with Mono sub... Let me re-draw my schematic and see if the new setup is what you are describing here. Thanks

 

[DJ SVO]

I would run cables directly to the tops from the amp 1 (That's why you use the crossover), leave the subs in passive mode, bridge amp 2 (Summed mono signal) (You're going to need to change the wiring of the speakon at the amp not the speaker end(1+ is positive 2+ is negative) and then daisy chain to the second sub. Remember the only wiring change is going to be at the sub, wiring at the speakers remains the same.

 

[Ttown2]

I would run cables directly to the tops from the amp 1 (That's why you use the crossover), leave the subs in passive mode, bridge amp 2 (Summed mono signal) (You're going to need to change the wiring of the speakon at the amp not the speaker end(1+ is positive 2+ is negative) and then daisy chain to the second sub. Remember the only wiring change is going to be at the sub, wiring at the speakers remains the same.

I could do that without a problem... so the Speakon on cable coming from the amp going to the first sub would be a 1+/2+ bridge, then make another cable (1+/2+) to go from that subs output to the input of the other? Will these B1800x Pro's handle this kind of load from an EP4000 chained that way (if thats what you meant)?

 

[DJ SVO]

No, the only change in the cable that feeds the subs is the one that goes to the output of the amp, the other end of that cable remains 1+(positive) 1-(negative), the cable from sub 1 to sub 2 is also 1+(positive) 1- (negative).

 

[Ttown2]

No, the only change in the cable that feeds the subs is the one that goes to the output of the amp, the other end of that cable remains 1+(positive) 1-(negative), the cable from sub 1 to sub 2 is also 1+(positive) 1- (negative).

thanks for clarification

 

[Ttown2]

Thanks for the help!!!

You guys have been a great help so far. I know a couple different people are recommending some different wiring setups, knowing that I want to utilize the best possible situation for sound clarity and power... I whipped up a quick little blank wiring schematic. If anyone could throw in their 2 cents it would be GREATLY appreciated!

Thanks again for all the quick input

 

[Sounds To Go]

Try this:

 

[Precisionpower]

Try this:

Nice Work! That's how i'd run it

 

[maestro]

Sounds To Go's diagram is good. Also make sure that the DIP switches on your amp are set properly to sum the inputs and to cut off everything down low to conserve power.

 

[Ttown2]

Try this:

I re-wired to this setup earlier. It sounds fine - the 2nd sub is a little quieter than the first that the bridge runs directly to. Everything else is good.

 

[maestro]

Connect both subs directly to the amp by piggy backing one set of banana plugs onto of the other. Don't go from sub to sub, go from amp to sub once for each sub.

 

[Ttown2]

Connect both subs directly to the amp by piggy backing one set of banana plugs onto of the other. Don't go from sub to sub, go from amp to sub once for each sub.

Of course, thanks!