You’re gear isn’t that delicate

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Most professional grade equipment (not talking strictly audio gear) will publish min/max operating temperatures as well as storage temperatures. The storage temperature range is going to be much larger than the operating temperature range. There are things to concern yourself with storage temperatures. Parts expand and contract with temperature. However, not all materials expand/contract at the same rate. Differences in the coefficients of expansion between two parts can create mechanical stresses that cause broken solder joints or sometimes buckling of boards. Most gear will work well beyond its published range but not all. The key thing is always to avoid temperature shock by rapidly changing the temp. If something has been in cold storage, let it get close to room temperature before turning it on. Make sure that at least the condensation is gone.
 
Most professional grade equipment (not talking strictly audio gear) will publish min/max operating temperatures as well as storage temperatures. The storage temperature range is going to be much larger than the operating temperature range. There are things to concern yourself with storage temperatures. Parts expand and contract with temperature. However, not all materials expand/contract at the same rate. Differences in the coefficients of expansion between two parts can create mechanical stresses that cause broken solder joints or sometimes buckling of boards. Most gear will work well beyond its published range but not all. The key thing is always to avoid temperature shock by rapidly changing the temp. If something has been in cold storage, let it get close to room temperature before turning it on. Make sure that at least the condensation is gone.
That is the key, the reason I went with a trailer and befor that vans was I despise loading gear into a vehicle every time I have a show back in the day it was 4-5 time a week seemed like unnecessary extra work
 
Professional and well-built audio seems to last forever. I’ve sold off some stuff that I brought in the 80s which was still sitting around. All the stuff worked. The big issue is that weight and power draw makes the stuff go obsolete. My 1200s I sold off for twice as much as I paid for them in the 1985. Video Equipment is another story just about everything for 2000 is basically unusable. On some of my older projectors I got in the 90s the pictures are in such low resolution it’s unwatchable. It kind of makes you cry when you have something you spent thousands on and it’s worth nothing now. that’s why I tell people buy it make money with it, then move on to the next big thing.
 
Professional and well-built audio seems to last forever. I’ve sold off some stuff that I brought in the 80s which was still sitting around. All the stuff worked. The big issue is that weight and power draw makes the stuff go obsolete. My 1200s I sold off for twice as much as I paid for them in the 1985. Video Equipment is another story just about everything for 2000 is basically unusable. On some of my older projectors I got in the 90s the pictures are in such low resolution it’s unwatchable. It kind of makes you cry when you have something you spent thousands on and it’s worth nothing now. that’s why I tell people buy it make money with it, then move on to the next big thing.
I'm with you but the gear whore in me doesn't let me go of gear. I now have a Limited Edition Rane SL3 that is no longer supported and a Rane 62 mixer that is no longer supported. I should have sold them off a few years back.
 
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It's not that delicate... but it helps if don't let it swan dive off a cart during a bumpy load in....

Dealing with a damaged speaker piece from this weekend:

PXL_20220925_003642300.jpg

It still works fine, but the chip is super ugly and will likely get worse unless I figure out how to mend it. I sent an email to RCF to see if they have a recommendation.
 
Sorry to hear DJ Albatross. I think you should be able to sand it down and refinish it. I had some scuff marks on my RCF 8004s and sanded them down just a bit and refinished with Duratex finish. I've linked it below. You can also check out some youtube videos where this guy does his whole sub cabinets. The best part is that it's water based and dries within a few hours. Let me know if you have any questions.

 
It's not that delicate... but it helps if don't let it swan dive off a cart during a bumpy load in....

Dealing with a damaged speaker piece from this weekend:

View attachment 54127

It still works fine, but the chip is super ugly and will likely get worse unless I figure out how to mend it. I sent an email to RCF to see if they have a recommendation.
That sucks Ross. :( Sharpie might help.
 
I’ve kept my gear in my trailer for over 20 years in Wisconsin from temps over 100 to -30 ncludung many laptops never had a failure of anything other than cds when it was cold and they fogged up
wow,youve never had BSoDs? absolute diamond those laptops.
ive got three in my lounge-one is windows 7 based,another is arch linux based (which runs mixxx great on such a poor spec) my main one,a ryzen 7 4000 based laptop with 32GB of kingston fury sodimm RAM and god knows what else has had about 5 or 6 BSoDs since i updated the stupid thing to windows 11 a week ago or so. why on earth i decided to do it i do not have an answer to. it looks to be an issue with a driver i installed with FL2021, as typical with ryzen based laptops you coud fry eggs on them as they get incredibly hot which is the norm for them but try that temp on todays current intel processor an i7 or less...or god help you-a celeron,itll fry your computer not eggs. :D
,to be within the norm -it can get close to 90 degrees on ryzen laptops and AMD CPUs in general-when using audio software or adobe or gaming and for them strictly around 90 degrees or lower is fine.
 
Don't use a sharpie because it may impede the bonding of whatever you next do to repair it.

Bondo - yes, the same plastic filler used on cars (there's also a variation of the product specific to wood restoration) is the thing to use. You can shape and sand it as needed, then paint it, and it will probably out-live the speaker.

Painting is a bit more tricky - you usually need to paint the entire cabinet because color matching is a problem given that all finishes change a bit with age. Even if you had he original manufactures paint -it's unlikely to be a perfect match on a spot repair. With a black speaker - a slight variation may not matter. YMMV

Dura-tex can also be found under the Behr brand at Home Depot called "Deck Saver" for less money/volume and comes in a variety of colors.
It's not that delicate... but it helps if don't let it swan dive off a cart during a bumpy load in....

Dealing with a damaged speaker piece from this weekend:

View attachment 54127

It still works fine, but the chip is super ugly and will likely get worse unless I figure out how to mend it. I sent an email to RCF to see if they have a recommendation.