LED Vertical Fog Machine & DMX Controller Help, PLEASE!!

Hey there, fellow lighting & sound enthusiasts – I am in desperate need of some expert help and advice! This is my first post to a forum like this but I can’t seem to find the answers I need -- either in a different forum here, or on any other DJ websites. I’m hoping you all could help steer me in the right direction. So, here goes…

My application is a little unique. I’m not a mobile DJ and I don’t work at night club; however, I have a big house and love to entertain, so I wanted my back yard and pool to feel like a club! That said, I felt the best way to “up my game” was to venture into BASIC smart lighting and DMX-controlled effects.

I did a ton of research online and read many different articles like “basics of DMX,” “DMX 101” and “understanding DMX.” Also watched a lot of various YouTube videos with people explaining how to hook up fixtures, daisy chain fixtures, link them to controllers, tips, important things to know, etc.

Because this is not for a commercial application – I decided to go with the inexpensive, Chinese-made products on eBay – versus the more expensive name-brand items from ADJ, Chauvet and Martin.

Here’s a list of all the equipment I purchased:

(1) Lixada 192 Channel Controller
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HXVRLYG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_tfeCzb61WAPT

(8) 30w Moving Head Lights
4PCS 30W RGBW Gobos Stage Lighting LED Beam Moving Head Light DMX Disco DJ Party | eBay

(10) LED RGB Par Lights
10x 86 LED RGB Stage Lights Par Disco Party Pub DJ DMX-512 Laser Projector Light | eBay

(1) LED Vertical Fog Machine DMX
2000W DMX512 RGB 3in1 24 LED DJ Fog Machine Stage Show Smoke Wireless Remote | eBay


As you all know, one of the troubles with these products manufactured in China, is the instruction manuals usually aren’t that great. Most of them are not very detailed and I’ve done a lot of trial/error with getting stuff connected and running.

I’ve been able to successfully daisy chain all 8 of my moving heads and connected them to my controller. Same with the PAR lights.

My primary issue has been getting the fog machine connected, addressed and set-up. The machine is similar to the ADJ Fog Fury Jett PRO. However, the manual didn’t even say how many channels it was capable of (much less, which channel controls which function – since it’s not “just” fog output, but LED lighting control too.) I exchanged emails with the seller and he informed me it’s a 5-channel piece of equipment. Channel 1 is the fog machine pump, Channel 2 is the color-changing strobe, Channel 3 is red LED, Channel 4 is green LED and Channel 5 is blue LED.

But I can’t even hook the damn thing up!! Please see the pictures I’ve attached to this post. You can see from the photos -- the controller has the standard 3-pin DMX Output FEMALE port on back. However, the DMX IN on the fog machine is ALSO a FEMALE 3-Pin port. DMX OUT is a 3-PIN MALE, on the fog machine.

Am I missing something? Do I need an adapter or some kind of product to make the female end of cable, male, to fit the fogger's DMX in? I see a lot of 5-pin to 3-pin adapters. Or, do I need to plug the cable into DMX OUT (even though I understand, it’s typically plugged into the IN port?)

The machine also has dip switches instead of digital DMX display. So I’m also seeking guidance on how to best address the fog machine, within the capabilities of my particular equipment. I’m running the (8) moving heads, in 10 channel mode. Moving head 1 is addressed 1-10, moving head 2 addressed 11-20, moving head 3 addressed 21-30, etc. Not currently running the PAR lights on DMX – so I only have channels 1-80 occupied with the moving heads. I read if you are DMXing a fog machine, a lot of folks suggest addressing it towards the END of your address spectrum. For example, my controller can handle 192 channels. Perhaps I address the fogger at 180-185 (since it’s 5 channels?) Would that be correct or do I have it all wrong?

DMX is so confusing and I have a new-found appreciation for all the DJs and lighting engineers out there! I cannot imagine how much effort goes in to setting up the lighting, alone, for a concert or major theatrical show. So many cables and so many channels!!!!

Any help you all could give me on getting this fogger hooked up & addressed properly would be greatly appreciated!! Hoping somebody out there understands what I am asking and can help, spend a little time with me, to get this right! Want to get the full party up-and-running in my back yard for the final stretch of summer.

Thanks so much, gang!

Thank you so much for your help! I appreciate you taking the time to write and explain!! I'll pick up one of the XLR gender changers and yes, I'm using a DMX 3-pin cable -- to connect fogger to the controller. I don't even own any XLR cables but I do have a package of DMX terminators that I purchased too.

Why is software better than physical board? I originally bought a DMX buddy, but returned it, because I was unable to set up the moving heads, since they are essentially brandless, Chinese knock-offs. ADJ software had pull down menus, to add an address devices, but it requires the make and model and brand knowledge.

I am seriously such a novice to this… but would kill for an amazing light show, around my pool!

What's the best, most user-friendly and easy-to-understand software interface? I found ADJ's MyDMX to be confusing and overwhelming, for a novice like myself.

Any other programs out there (Lightjams, LightKey, SweetLight, ShowXpress, Emulation, etc) that you prefer? Easiest to operate without major cash investment?

The controller I purchased is still eligible for return with Amazon. Wondering if I should send that back and use the credit to purchase software, instead?

I run all Apple devices (iPhone 7 plus, iPad Air 2, and newest MacBook Pro model.). I understand some software programs work better with PC versus MAC.

steve149 said:

For movers, because you really need to program movement, there are no real easy ones. For PARs only, there are a few .. favorite is AEON RAVEN - DMX BLACKBIRD PFX edition music controlled DMX activity. The reality is DMX requires a lot of effort to get good results.

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Thank you, Steve, for the detailed and prompt replies!! I will check out the Aeon Raven. For the moving heads, which do you find is the MOST user-friendly software interface? I am a quick learner and can "dig in" to learn the material. I've had success with controlling, hooking-up and addressing those moving heads from the board. Like I said in an earlier post -- the only issue I had with ADJ software is that you needed specific brand and product model numbers to "set-up" the fixture within the program. If I had a Chauvet Intimidator or ADJ Inno Pocket Spot - it seems like the fixtures would be pretty easy to install - but the Chinese no-name products are tricky, because of lack of information that was required by MyDMX.

Happy to report the gender changer adapter solved my problem! As suspected, the DMX IN and OUT on the machine was wired for XLR. Now the fogger mystery is solved!

I ordered the DMX King dongle, as well, and now plan to venture in to the world of software control versus my physical board. Now I just need to find a good (preferably free) software the use with it that's also compatible with my MacBook Pro.

Thanks for all of your advice and help!

Proformance said:

It is not unusual for quality control to be dismal in these Chinese knock-offs. The 3-pin XLRs appear to have been wired according to the audio standard rather than the DMX convention. You can use a gender changer to see if that is the case, and if so rewire and then swap their positions to correct the mistake, or continue using the gender changer.

The professional standard for DMX actually deploys a 5-pin XLR and uses the male connector as the input. DJ class gear relies on the cheaper more readily available 3-pin connector, an again uses the male connector as the input (which is the exact opposite of how these connectors are used for audio.) Unfortunately, this creates a lot of confusion even in Chinese factories where these things are copied without a great deal of engineering scrutiny or quality control.

DIP switch addresses are set by the cumulative value of each switch turned on in a 9 switch series. The value of the first switch is 1 and each switch thereafter has a value double that of the prior switch up to 256. So, if the first three switches are turned on the address becomes: 1 +2 + 4 for an actual DMX address of 7. and address of 65 would require switches 1 and 7 or values 1 + 64 = an address of 65. The trick is keeping the switch value and the corresponding switch numbers clear in your head. You'll find making a chart more helpful.

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