Lamp cord for add-a-tap

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Personally, I would never use add-a-taps as they're all 2 conductor with no ground. Make a stringer with 12 or 14 ga wire, metal handy boxes and normal outlets .. box, cover and outlets cost maybe $5-$6 per outlet. I have made some and covered the box with plasti-dip spray ... makes them black and a bit more moisture resistant.


Handy box:

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Those "tappy" things are okay for table lamps or string lights, but you have to get 18 gauge wire (not the ticker 16).

If you're looking to use these for work (uplights, etc.), I'll echo Steve or something as below.

I was going to recommend the pre-made stringers, but I've used some and for lighting the outlets never seem to be in the right place.

For a business, I wouldn't use ungrounded anything .. potential liability source.
 
Those "tappy" things are okay for table lamps or string lights, but you have to get 18 gauge wire (not the ticker 16).

If you're looking to use these for work (uplights, etc.), I'll echo Steve or something as below.


Nah, just looking for quickie, temporary install on uplights at my venue. I've got one side run on an old strand that I used to use with my non-battery uplights. Just need another run for the opposite side. I've got 3 work days down there next weekend and already purchased the metal boxes, like Steve was suggesting for a perm install. If I get the time I'll go ahead and wire those circuits and be done with it.
 
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Speaking of uplighting, let me run something past you guys. I'm really thinking about downlighting, 1 fixture on the top of each 6X6 pole, at the 10ft mark (right beneath the metal trusses. I'll mount the electrical box right beside each fixture and use a 1ft nema cable to power each. I've also given some thought to cross-lighting. I'd still mount the fixtures in the same location, but instead of shooting the light down the pole, shoot it across the room to the opposing wall. I'd obviously lose the light column, but it would be a lot more wall wash (color). I got the idea from some old pics that Chuck posted where he sprayed the ceiling at a couple of venues and I thought it looked really nice. Any thoughts?
 
I'm really thinking about downlighting, 1 fixture on the top of each 6X6 pole, at the 10ft mark (right beneath the metal trusses. I'll mount the electrical box right beside each fixture and use a 1ft nema cable to power each. I've also given some thought to cross-lighting. I'd still mount the fixtures in the same location, but instead of shooting the light down the pole, shoot it across the room to the opposing wall. I'd obviously lose the light column, but it would be a lot more wall wash (color).

Downlinghting also eliminates the possibility of someone tripping over the lights, or stealing them.
And it means no cords or wires on the floor, which is also safer. (and looks better)
If you mount the lights properly, you will be able to adjust them to be downlighting, crosslighting...
or to light up the cake table, head table, or some other feature.
 
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Downlinghting also eliminates the possibility of someone tripping over the lights, or stealing them.
And it means no cords or wires on the floor, which is also safer. (and looks better)
If you mount the lights properly, you will be able to adjust them to be downlighting, crosslighting...
or to light up the cake table, head table, or some other feature.

Good points. Theft is probably my biggest reason to mount them as downlights. I have that place chained up but with me being here and my parents being in their 80s, break-ins are a big concern. Speaking of which, guess it's about time to get a security system in place.
 
I've seen downlights in 2 places around me .. neither looked very good (could also be the lights they chose). I think what makes uplights nice is their beam continues upwards to light the ceiling. Here you'd be lighting the floor mostly .. not sure people will like that effect. Better off mounting them to the wall/pillar/pole at the bottom if you need security.