Anyone familiar with Peavey IPR2 3000 amps and troubleshooting them

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Ron

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Jun 14, 2011
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Anyone familiar with Peavey IPR2 3000 amps and troubleshooting them?

When I first turn it on, The right channel exhibits normal behavior. (IE Active LED comes on)
The left channel... The Signal light and the DDT light comes on together and after about 5 seconds the DDT light goes off; but the signal light stays on.
Could this be a cable issue, bad signal from the crossover, etc... any thoughts or websites with troubleshooting ideas would be appreciated?

Thanks in advance.... yes this caused the backup gear to come out.
 

tunes4046

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Pretty sure these are designed to be throw away amps if I remember right they aren’t very expensive if will probably cost as much to fix as to buy a new one
 

Jeff Romard

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Anyone familiar with Peavey IPR2 3000 amps and troubleshooting them?

When I first turn it on, The right channel exhibits normal behavior. (IE Active LED comes on)
The left channel... The Signal light and the DDT light comes on together and after about 5 seconds the DDT light goes off; but the signal light stays on.
Could this be a cable issue, bad signal from the crossover, etc... any thoughts or websites with troubleshooting ideas would be appreciated?

Thanks in advance.... yes this caused the backup gear to come out.
I would start with changing the cabling in the string but as a quick guess I would say the output circuit is having problems
 
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DJ TJ

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Pretty sure these are designed to be throw away amps if I remember right they aren’t very expensive if will probably cost as much to fix as to buy a new one
No, they are decent amps for the money especially with built in DSP.
Peavey had a lot of problems with the first generation IPR's but from what I've read the 2nd gen IPR2 line are pretty solid.

The Behringer iNuke series...... now that's a throw away!
 

Handinon

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When I first turn it on, The right channel exhibits normal behavior. (IE Active LED comes on)
The left channel... The Signal light and the DDT light comes on together and after about 5 seconds the DDT light goes off; but the signal light stays on.
Could this be a cable issue, bad signal from the crossover, etc... any thoughts or websites with troubleshooting ideas would be appreciated?
Does it do this with nothing hooked up to the inputs and outputs? Listen closely when you first turn it on - do you hear a sound like a relay actuating?
 

Ron

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It does this when nothing is hooked up. I believe I found the component causing this issue on the A Channel. It is getting way hotter than it's matching capacitor on the B Channel. This just an amateur assessment. My dad is a retired electronics specialist and is going to take a look for me.
 

Handinon

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It does this when nothing is hooked up. I believe I found the component causing this issue on the A Channel. It is getting way hotter than it's matching capacitor on the B Channel. This just an amateur assessment. My dad is a retired electronics specialist and is going to take a look for me.
If your Dad knows how to use a voltmeter, he should have no problem finding what is wrong by simply comparing voltage readings on the same components in each channel. This is the beauty of a stereo amplifier when only one channel is broken.

However, even before doing that I'd suggest unplugging and then re-seating every plug/jack on the PCB's.
 
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Handinon

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The attached file is a schematic for an IPR 3000 DSP (interestingly, designed by Crest). Regardless, a lot of this stuff tends to be very similar.
I'd immediately check the voltages on the three pins of each output device Q100-Q103 and Q200-Q203, in both channels, looking for obvious differences.

Because of labor costs, many companies do not troubleshoot below board level - they simply throw the whole PCB out and swap in a new one. This often makes the actual procuring of the new part (like an output device) the hardest part of the job, and/or it's cost prohibitive because of a large minimum order amount from the parts distributor. Good luck.
 

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Ron

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While I still plan to troubleshoot the 2 amps in question... the truth is this has caused me to loose confidence in my amps. So, decided it was time for so decided it was time for a major upgrade.... my large and small system were all built around the Peavey IPR2 amps. I have pulled all of them out and replacing the 2 in my large system with 2 of the QSC PLD 4.2 amps. PLD4.2 Power Amplifier with DSP - QSC

I have also replaced my Furman MX-82 (which I believe to be the culprit) with a furman PL-8C (15A Classic Series Power Conditioner w/Lights | Furman Power | Purifying power for over 40 years.)

One will power my tops and one will power the subs. In the event of a failure this gives me near instant redundancy (just switch a few cables and load a different profile (seconds)) one amp can still push the entire system and provide enough power for most of my events.

My smaller system will be replaced with 2 QSC GXD4's GXD 4 Professional Power Amplifier
 
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DJ TJ

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I'm not following your logic. First you didn't indicate that it was more than one amp that had a problem.
Now you think the power conditioner is the culprit but you're still replacing your amps?
 

Handinon

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1) I don't use power conditioners
2) If you have two amps with the same failure mode, that went bad on the same set of speakers, you need to look real close at those speakers and the speaker wire.
 

Fred1976

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Hello everyone, is there anyone who has the schematic diagram for peavy IPR 2 7500
The amp has a problem of not switching and the one one has DDT led on
 

Handinon

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Peavey is usually pretty good with sharing schematics if you ask them, at least they used to be. I took a quick look around the internet (like you've probably already done), and found nothing.

However, of note is that it looks like there is no provision for Bridging. For a Class D amp, this usually means it has four amps inside the case with each pair already Bridged. This may aid when troubleshooting. The Behringer nu6000 is built exactly the same way - two Bridged nu3000 in one case.

Here's a YouTube vid of someone inside one. No idea really what he is doing, but running a voltage check on the output devices is as good a place as any to start -
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_r3Q21hKPa8


Once fixed, I would not use it to drive a 2 ohm load even though the specs say it's OK - again because of the Bridging.
 
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